The subtleties of planting watermelons in open ground

The subtleties of planting watermelons in open ground

Currently, there are more and more varieties of watermelon that can be grown in open ground in regions with a cold climate. It is not so easy, but if you approach the rules of planting and growing with all responsibility, then at the end of the summer season it is possible to get a large and sweet watermelon.

Culture Features

The plant belongs to the gourd family. South Africa is considered the birthplace of watermelon. The ancestor of the giant berry known to us is the colocynth, which still grows in South Africa and Namibia today.

At present, the plant is cultivated on the largest scale in China. It is also often grown in Iran, Turkey, Egypt, USA, Russia and Uzbekistan. The most preferred climate for culture is an area with hot and dry summers and short winters.

The shoots of the plant are thin creeping shoots that branch and twist. The length can reach 4 meters. In the period of youth of culture shoots are dense. The leaves are rough, hard, fluffy. Their shape is triangular, and at the base the leaf has the shape of a heart. The length of leaf plates is on average 8-22 cm, width - 5-18 cm. The culture blooms in the summer. It can have not only male and female flowers, but also hermaphrodites.

The fruit is a giant berry filled with seeds. The surface is smooth to the touch.The flesh is bright red, pink or pale pink depending on the stage of ripening and variety, but there are varieties with yellowish flesh and a rough shell. The fruit tastes sweet and juicy.

More than a thousand species of watermelon are known, but recently seedless watermelon has become widespread. It is grown in a special way, using pollination. The next generation can be obtained by processing the variety with a special compound. In general, it cannot be called absolutely seedless, it still has seeds, but they are small and soft, and the pulp can be consumed with them.

The advantage of watermelon is the combination of taste and benefits in it. There aren't many people in the world who don't like the taste of sweet watermelon. This berry is able to strengthen the immune system. In addition, it can be called an effective prevention of oncology.

A feature is the ability to remove excess fluid from the body. Slags and toxins, salts and sand also come out with water. The content of folic acid in a significant amount makes the product useful for pregnant women. This substance strengthens the hematopoietic system and has a positive effect on the development of the nervous system of the unborn child, increases lactation.

This is one of the favorite dishes of people suffering from diabetes. Patients can enjoy the sweet watermelon pulp without harming their health. In addition, watermelon is able to rid the body of cholesterol, weakens such ailments as gout and atherosclerosis.

Beta-carotene, which is part of the watermelon, allows you to overcome stress. This is a kind of antidepressant that will help restore the nervous system and relieve mental tension.

The use of this giant berry is also recommended for people in old age. Phenylalanine protects them from Parkinson's disease.

The content of citrulline ensures the active work of the heart, dilates blood vessels and increases male potency.

The use of watermelon is well suited for ladies seeking to lose weight. Firstly, it removes excess water, and secondly, it saturates the body with sweet pulp, which reduces the amount of other foods consumed.

Watermelon helps to cope with the following diseases:

  • anemia;
  • gastritis;
  • ulcers;
  • obesity;
  • diseases of the liver and kidneys;
  • constipation;
  • disorders in the urinary system;
  • aesthetic problems of the skin.

Before eating watermelon, it is worth remembering some of the harm that this fruit can cause:

  • you can not use the product for colitis and diarrhea;
  • in case of kidney diseases, it is necessary to consult a doctor, pyelonephritis and kidney stones are a strict contraindication;
  • it is better to refuse to use it for problems with the prostate and pancreas.

The main harm that watermelon can bring to the body is associated with a large amount of nitrates. Watermelon is filled with these substances during cultivation so that the fruit ripens faster and increases in size. High levels of nitrates can cause poisoning.

To avoid unpleasant consequences, you should choose a watermelon from a trusted seller. It is worth refusing to buy cracked and chopped fruits. Yellowish fibers on the pulp, its excessive brightness, glossy peel can speak about the content of nitrates.

The most correct way to protect your body from nitrates, which are supplied to fruits during cultivation, is to grow berries on your own. The following conditional varieties are suitable for this:

  • Colocynt. It has a rounded type of leaves and yellow single flowers. Differs in small fruits. When ripe, the green and smooth shell turns yellow. The pulp is white and has yellowish seeds. There is no smell. The benefit lies in the content of protein, lycoside, chloroform, pectin. Used by folk healers in the treatment of constipation, kidney disease, dropsy. It is possible to grow in a climate with an annual rainfall of up to 1500 mm, a temperature in the range of 14–24 degrees, and does not tolerate low temperatures.

  • Ordinary. It has over a thousand species. Blooms in summer. Ripens in late summer-early autumn. May have a spherical, cylindrical, oval or simplified shape. Weight varies depending on growing conditions. The flesh is sweet, red, but species with white or yellow flesh are known. The stems are flexible and thin. The most common variety, most preferred by gardeners for cultivation.
  • Square. This subspecies should not be considered a separate variety. This is the same watermelon, but its shape is created artificially. The view is designed for ease of transportation and storage. The fruit is placed in a wooden form at a time when its size is not larger than an egg. When growing a square watermelon, it is worth remembering that it is better to make a box for creating a mold with an opening door on one side - this way there will be no problems with “rescuing” the fruit from the box. Ventilation holes are cut on the sides. When the watermelon reaches the desired shape, it is taken out and left under the sun so that the shell turns green.

Any variety of watermelon is suitable for cultivation. The rules for their planting and care are practically the same.

Timing

The planting time and the ripening period of watermelon usually depend on the region where the crop is planted. It is important to choose the right variety that will withstand the conditions of a particular climatic environment. In any case, such a heat-loving plant is characterized by a fairly long growing season.

Usually, transplanting into open ground is done when the shoots reach the age of 30 days. Therefore, sowing, as a rule, begins in mid or late April.

In the south of Ukraine, in Krasnodar and Transcaucasia, a warm and sunny climate prevails, and therefore the fruits here develop in an accelerated mode. The culture can be grown immediately in open ground. And already in the north of Ukraine, where it is not so warm, it is necessary to plant seedlings before planting.

In the Moscow region, Siberia, St. Petersburg or the Far East, it is impossible to get a good harvest, but a moderate amount of fruit will be obtained even in a moderately cold and harsh climate. However, in this case, you should be guided by simple rules:

  • it is important to choose an early ripening variety for cultivation;
  • you need to plant a crop in a greenhouse, in the middle lane you can use a film;
  • planting is done by seedling method;
  • if planks are placed under the fruits, this will avoid their decay;
  • no more than a couple of fruits should be left; if they arrange berries of medium mass, then it is allowed to leave 5-6 berries.

In the conditions of the Moscow region, it is recommended to choose the following varieties:

  • "Sugar Baby";
  • "Skorik";
  • "Spark";
  • "Astrakhansky";
  • "Top Gun".

For the Leningrad region, the most preferred varieties are:

  • "Kharkiv";
  • "Russian size";
  • "Rose of the Southeast";
  • "Skorospelka";
  • "Favorite of the farm of Pyatigorsk."

In the Urals, you can use varieties that are used in the Moscow region, plus:

  • "Pink Champagne F1";
  • "Pinkey";
  • "Gift of the North";
  • "Honey";
  • Crimstar.

Varieties suitable for planting in the temperature conditions of Siberia and the Far East:

  • Crimson Wonder;
  • Crimson Sweet;
  • "Super-early Dutina";
  • "Ultraearly";
  • "Siberian".

In total, the inhabitants of the middle lane can prepare for the harvest in 70-80 days. The mass of fruits should reach 2-6 kg.

It is important to remove the berries only when they are ripe, but not earlier and not later. The first stage of readiness occurs about five days before full maturity, that is, at this time they can already be removed. If you collect unripe fruits, then most likely they will remain unripe, as they will not ripen in storage. Overripe berries are not intended for long-term storage.

The exact timing is impossible to establish, it all depends on the variety. In general, the following harvesting periods are considered correct for different species:

  • early maturing varieties ("Skorik", "Sugar Baby") - late July-early August;
  • mid-early ("Ultra-early") - the beginning and middle of August;
  • mid-season ("Barrel of honey") - the end of August and the beginning of September;
  • mid-late ("Chill") - mid and late September;
  • late-ripening ("Icarus", "Snowball") - the beginning and middle of October.

Schemes and rules

The rules that must be followed when planting watermelons are not complicated, but it is important to be guided by them. Each stage of planting requires special conditions.

Site preparation

When choosing a site, focus on the following aspects:

  • This should be a well lit area. In the shade it is impossible to get a good harvest. Be sure to protect the site from the wind.
  • Places with a close occurrence of groundwater are not suitable.This is due to the fact that the culture is quite drought-resistant.
  • The choice of soil must be made in favor of sandy or sandy soil. The acid content in the soil is neutral. An excessive amount of acidity threatens the appearance of small fruits with a weak peel.

Particularly fertile land culture is not required. Planting is possible both in black soil and in stony soil. But some top dressing still needs to be made. It is better to do this before planting, and then additional fertilizers will not be needed during cultivation.

Typically, gardeners recommend using superphosphate, azophoska, ash (1 l per m2) or humus (5 l per m2) for the plant.

Seed preparation

Having carefully prepared the soil, we proceed directly to planting. This can be done by the seedling method, or you can immediately plant the seeds in the ground in the open air. In any case, watermelon seeds must be carefully prepared.

The choice of variety requires special attention. A hybrid should be selected depending on the climatic conditions of a particular region.

An important aspect is the sorting of seeds. To do this, planting material is poured out of the package and the largest specimens are selected. They have a high content of nutrients, which will lead to their effective development and a good harvest.

To activate the biochemical processes in the seminal tissues, the seed must be heated and soaked. These actions will ensure good germination, the formation of female flowers, and the qualitative development of the loop. For this:

  • pour the seeds into a cloth package and lower them into warm water (50-60 degrees), stand for 2-3 hours;
  • after that, we put the container for 30 minutes in a warm, weak solution of potassium permanganate;
  • we take out the bag, wait until the liquid drains;
  • then we place the planting material in wet sand or on a paper substrate, where after a couple of days at room temperature it should begin to germinate.

In modern specialized stores, some manufacturers offer already processed seeds - in this case, they can be planted immediately.

It is extremely important to harden the planting material. This will increase its resistance to a sharp change in temperature conditions, and will also contribute to the abundance of the crop. Summer residents prefer to harden using one of two methods:

  • Sprouted seeds are placed for 1-2 days in a refrigerator at a temperature of 0-1 degrees. They need to be systematically shifted from place to place. The same actions can be performed by putting the seeds in a container and placing it in the snow.
  • The swollen planting material is placed in the refrigerator for 12 hours at a temperature not lower than 6 degrees. The seeds should spend the next 12 hours at a temperature of +18 - +20 degrees. Actions must be repeated within three days.

Before planting, the seeds need to dry a little.

seeds

It is possible to plant seeds immediately in open ground only in the conditions of the southern region. It is necessary that the air temperature is not lower than 12 degrees, and the earth warms up to a level of 10 cm. The most successful period for this is the last decade of May. If the soil has not yet had time to warm up, then the period of seed germination will increase markedly, which may result in their death or infection.

Stages of planting germinated seeds in open ground:

  • we break through a hole of a meter diameter to a depth of about 30 cm, we introduce humus, ash or sand;
  • fill the landing area with two liters of water;
  • when the moisture is absorbed, place 4-5 grains in the hole to a depth of 3-6 cm;
  • cover with soil and compact.

It is worth remembering that the melon culture grows widely, and future specimens of the plant should not interfere with each other. Use the following schemes when landing:

  • when planting early varieties, it is recommended to observe the distance between future shoots of 1.4x1.4 m or 1.4x0.7 m, where the first value is the gap between rows, the second is between plants;
  • it is customary to plant late and medium varieties according to the scheme 2x2 m, 2.1x1.4 m, 2.1x1 m.

As already noted, seeds are usually lowered to a depth of 3-6 cm, but this is an average. For a more accurate determination of the depth in each case, several factors must be taken into account:

  • size of planting material: small seeds are planted at a shallow depth and vice versa;
  • soil features: on light soil it is worth choosing a greater depth, on heavy soil - less;
  • humidity: seeds are placed on a wet surface.

Immediately after planting, the seeds do not need to be moistened. Further, they require abundant watering as the soil dries out. Usually watering is done once a week. The earth is moistened to a level of 25-30 cm.

When the sprouts have hatched, the culture is thinned out. Weak samples must be eliminated.

The process is repeated in the phase of 3–4 true leaves. In total, each hole in the total should include no more than two copies.

The advantage of a giant berry grown by direct planting is its high resistance to sharp temperature fluctuations and dry summers, but in this case the harvest will have to wait longer than in plants planted by seedlings.

seedlings

The most favorable time for planting seedlings is the middle or end of April. As soon as the treated seeds germinate by 1-1.5 cm, they can be planted. It is done like this:

  • we prepare a container with a volume of 0.5-1 liter, more often these are ordinary flower pots;
  • we break through a hole in each to a depth of 3 cm and lay 4-5 seeds;
  • sprinkle with earth;
  • we water;
  • cover the container with glass or film;
  • put the container on the window on the sunny side; drafts must be avoided in the room.

To get strong and healthy seedlings, which will subsequently give a high yield, it is necessary to properly care for young shoots. Basic Rules:

  • During the day, the air temperature in the room should be about 25 degrees. At night, it is recommended to reduce it to 20 degrees. If these conditions are met, then the first shoots will hatch in 7-10 days.
  • A 12-hour light regime should be maintained. With a lack of light, the sprouts can stretch out and die. On gloomy days, you need to use a phytolamp.
  • When the sprouts have hatched, it is necessary to thin out the seedlings. Only the strongest seedling should remain in the pot.
  • Watering is carried out on a daily basis. At the same time, it is necessary to avoid getting moisture on the leaves, and also try not to erode the soil.
  • Drainage holes should be provided at the bottom of the container so that excess water drains.
  • In the phase of three true leaves, the shoots need to be fed. For this, gardeners recommend using fermented mullein, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 10. Liquid complex fertilizer is suitable.

As soon as the age of the seedlings reaches 30-35 days, you can proceed to transplanting into open ground. At this point, the shoots have already developed at least four leaves.

It is recommended to harden the seedlings 10 days before planting in the open air.To do this, the pots are left outside for some time, each day increasing the number of hours they spend outdoors. The shoots should spend the last 3-4 days on the street completely; they must be thoroughly watered before planting. Measures for hardening plants make young sprouts resistant to temperature changes.

Seedlings are transplanted into open ground in mid-June. It is better to choose the morning for this. The shoot, together with an earthen clod, is taken out of the pot and planted in a hole, watered and covered with a film.

It is recommended to plant the plant deeper than it was in the container so that the root neck does not collapse under the influence of wind.

You will learn more about how to plant seedlings of watermelons in open ground from the following video.

Helpful Hints

So that the novice melon grower does not disappoint the harvest, experienced gardeners give useful recommendations. One of them is related to the compatibility of two different crops during cultivation. This refers to the "neighbors" and "predecessors" of the giant berry.

To protect the crop from the wind, you can create a semblance of shelter by planting corn, beans or peas around the ridge. In addition, these plants improve the development and taste of fruits. If you plant a black radish nearby, then the production of phytoncides by it will prevent the occurrence of spider mites, aphids, moths.

Perfect "neighbors" of watermelon can be melon, potatoes, oat root. Sow thistle and gauze will be good helpers in the development of the plant. It is possible to plant a crop close to greens, but not close to parsley.

When choosing neighboring vegetables, do not forget that watermelons grow widely, so gardeners recommend growing early-ripening varieties nearby.

It is necessary to mention the crops that can negatively affect the development of watermelons with a neighboring planting:

  • It is worth avoiding growing next to shrubs and trees that create shade on the ridge. Watermelons require a well-lit area.
  • Not the most successful companions - strawberries, tomatoes, peppers.
  • It is better not to plant beets, carrots and radishes nearby, as gourds take a lot of minerals from the soil.
  • An undesirable neighborhood can also happen with relatives - pumpkins or zucchini, as well as cucumbers.

Particular attention should be paid to crop rotation. If you alternate the plant with a frequency of 3-4 seasons, then the site becomes less insects, diseases and weeds. The same ridge can be used for melons and gourds for a maximum of two years in a row.

Watermelon grows very well after the following "predecessors":

  • wheat;
  • basil;
  • dill;
  • cabbage;
  • tomatoes.

The most wrong decision of an agronomist is to plant a watermelon on the field after a melon, squash, zucchini. It is better to plant legumes or garlic in this place.

Useful advice from experienced summer residents also applies to the methods of growing melons and gourds. For example, residents of the northern regions use trellises when caring for a plant. This method is suitable for small, low-light ridges. Installation steps:

  • two supports at least 1.5 meters high are mounted on opposite sides of the site, twine is pulled between the stakes;
  • other ropes are attached to the twine, the ends of which are fixed on the stem or ground, the stems of the plant will rest on them;
  • the main stem is attached vertically, the crown is not attached;
  • lateral sprouts can be eliminated, since female flowers are always formed on the main stem;
  • the fruits are packed in nets, after which they are tied to a trellis, which prevents them from falling under their own weight.

Another tip from experienced gardeners is to recommend growing a crop under a covering material. This method is preferred by many agronomists, as the method has several advantages:

  • prevents the formation of weeds;
  • reduces the impact of temperature changes;
  • keeps water in the ground.

A relevant method is for summer residents who want to grow a crop in a short or wet summer, as the fruits ripen 7-10 days earlier. Black polyethylene, temporary film or spunbond can be used as a covering material.

To organize cultivation under black polyethylene, gardeners suggest following the following steps:

  • We dig in beds 10-15 cm high. The distance between them should not be less than 1.5 m.
  • Between the ridges we dig a trench to a depth of 40 cm, put straw in it.
  • Fill the straw with a solution of urea. This contributes to rapid decay.
  • Put fresh grass on top, tamp.
  • The next layer is humus mixed with earth. This composition will nourish young seedlings.
  • All contents are filled with water and covered with black polyethylene.
  • Holes in the form of crosses are cut on the surface, the distance between adjacent slots should be 0.9 m.
  • Heavy objects are placed on the edges of the film in order to protect against gusts of wind.
  • We plant the seedlings in the holes made.

Temporary film can be used as a protective material against a sharp cold snap. In this case, you should adhere to the following rules:

  • We mount earthen arcs over the site.
  • We put a film on the installation. The width and height of the building is approximately 70 cm.

Under the presented design, the fruits ripen two weeks earlier. In the case of a scorching sun and heat, the material is removed so that the culture does not overheat.

The easiest way to create a shelter for future berries is to stretch a spunbond or film on one side of the site. These measures will ensure that the seedlings are quickly covered right along the lashes in the event of a sudden cold.

The following helpful tips relate to disease and insect control methods. The most common diseases for gourds are ascochitosis, powdery mildew, anthracnose, peronosporosis.

Such drugs as "Ordan", colloidal sulfur, "Abiga-Peak", "HOM" will help to cope with diseases. However, the best way to fight will be preliminary preventive measures. In order to prevent infection, it is required to adhere to the rules of crop rotation and comply with all the planting and growing conditions presented above.

Most often, melon aphids, meadow moths, and wireworms become lovers of harming plantings. These insects can cause not only spoilage of the product, but also completely ruin the crop. The most effective insecticides against these pests were Tantrek, Aktaru, Decis, Fufanon.

Also, a proven folk method will help to destroy aphids:

  • mix tobacco dust and wood ash in proportions 1: 1;
  • powder the parts damaged by the insect with the resulting mixture and sprinkle with water;
  • after 20 minutes, the earth on the ridge should be loosened to eliminate the individuals that have fallen to the surface of the site.

Another folk trick will help to cope with caterpillars and wireworms:

  • we break through a hole in the ground with a depth of about 50 cm;
  • we place sweet plant residues and pieces of cake in it;
  • cover the recess with a shield;
  • two days later we take out the bait from the pit along with the insects that are trapped and burn it.

As already noted, it is important to harvest the fruits when they are already ripe. In order not to be mistaken with the degree of ripeness, gardeners are advised to look closely at some signs of fruits. Maturity is indicated by the following external factors:

  • dry tail;
  • a clear pattern has formed on the surface;
  • lack of a bluish tint;
  • the presence of yellowish areas on the peel;
  • the aroma is like the fragrance of freshly cut grass;
  • If you tap on the cover, a ringing sound is heard.

After harvesting, it is necessary to send the fruits for storage. To do this, you also need to follow some rules:

  • medium-sized berries with a dense whole peel are suitable for storage;
  • you can not throw fruits;
  • it is better to refuse transportation on a hard surface;
  • it is necessary to ensure that the berries do not touch each other;
  • for storage, you need to choose a well-ventilated room with a humidity of 75-85% and a temperature of 1-4 degrees.

Experienced summer residents recommend using several storage methods:

  • In a box lined on all sides with dry moss. In addition, each fruit should also be wrapped in moss.
  • In a box filled with wood ash. Ash is also sprinkled on top of the berries.
  • Fruits can be stored in the cellar, having previously dipped each in clay, paraffin or wax. The thickness of the product used should be 0.5 cm.
  • Each fruit can be wrapped in a dense natural fabric and hung from the ceiling in the basement.
  • Let's say a way to store the crop on the shelves in the cellar, but for this it is worth laying straw thickly on the rack.
  • If the fruits are stored simply indoors, then every day they need to be turned over.

For those who decide to try growing watermelons on their site, experienced melon growers give some more general useful tips:

  • If the crop is grown in the northern region, then it is worth considering the close occurrence of groundwater in the soil. From excess moisture, the roots undergo rotting processes. If you water the plant not under the root, but in the aisles, then this will lead to the development of the root system not in breadth, but in depth, which, in turn, will save the plant from death. In arid regions, these measures are not required - here the plants themselves go deep into the depths in search of moisture.
  • In the process of seed preparation, there is another way to stimulate the development of planting material. To do this, the seed is deliberately injured by rubbing its tip on fine sandpaper. It's important not to overdo it. The method is used by agronomists in the middle lane.
  • When planting and growing watermelons, it is worth abandoning fertilizer such as manure. It can provoke the occurrence of diseases and worsen the taste of the pulp.

Thus, it is possible to grow watermelons in open ground conditions in almost any region of the country, but it is important to follow all the rules, as well as use the advice of experienced gardeners. And then even a novice summer resident will get a high yield with delicious juicy fruits.

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The information is provided for reference purposes. Do not self-medicate. For health issues, always consult a specialist.

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