Planting and caring for blackberries in the fall
Blackberries are a very attractive crop. It can be grown in most of the territory of our country. But in order to succeed, it must be done according to strict rules.
Landing dates
First of all, you should figure out why it is in the fall that you need to plant blackberry bushes. There is no consensus in the horticultural community on this matter. Therefore, it is necessary to be guided not by other people's recommendations, but by practical considerations. An indispensable requirement for growing blackberries is a thorough warming of the earth. It also needs to be properly prepared.
In addition to the acid-base balance, one must pay attention to the mechanical structure of the earth. Blackberries should preferably be planted in heavy, clay soil that retains water for a long time. Despite the resistance of blackberries to partial and even complete shading, berries grown in sunny areas are always larger and sweeter.
Autumn planting gives good results only in temperate climates. In this case, it is produced from 20 to 30 September.
Processing - cleaning from weeds and adding fertilizer - is preferable just in the fall. In addition, in September - October, the earth is naturally warmer than in March and even in May. It is often objected that the autumn planting of blackberries threatens to freeze seedlings. And they add that over the summer the culture will take root, get stronger. But one must also take into account that the plantings that survived the cold season will harden, their immunity will become stronger.
In the middle zone of our country, blackberries can produce a good harvest. However, its resistance to frost is insufficient. Therefore, it is important to choose areas where cold winds do not blow, where the earth quickly warms up by the sun. Spring planting is recommended in these regions. An additional requirement is enhanced preparation for winter.
In the Moscow region, spring planting is also appropriate. Connoisseurs advise choosing southern and western slopes of hills and uplands for blackberries. You will have to prepare from the end of the previous season. Regardless of the landing method, it is required to complete it before May 25. Only in this case, the plants will take root and physically get stronger before the onset of frost.
How to plant?
Planting blackberries is done carefully, additionally take into account that this crop loves moisture. On a dry day, the bushes will have to be constantly watered, sometimes every two days. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a place for a bed near a well, a water pipe. Additionally, it is worth taking care of high-quality drainage. Blackberries do well in areas with high levels of acidity.
It is required to test the ground in a special way. If the acidity is low, you will have to use special additives. Among them, potassium sulphate is the best. A good natural substitute for it is fresh manure. When the manure breaks down, the soil not only becomes more acidic, but the concentration of nitrogen increases.
Since the blackberry grows very rapidly, a gap of at least 2 m is left between the bushes. This requirement is also due to the fact that it is more convenient to pick berries this way. The fact is that most varieties are replete with sharp thorns. When growing remontant varieties, such a requirement is not very relevant.But the principles of dealing with them are special, not the same as with ordinary cultures.
The size of the planting hole is determined by how large the seedlings are. Blackberry roots should be placed freely, the neck of the roots is inserted into the ground at least 0.05 m. In most cases, the volume of the pit is 40 cubic meters. see. The outer fertile layer is laid on the side. Before returning it to its place, add:
- 0.1 kg of superphosphate;
- 0.03 kg of potassium sulfate;
- humus;
- loam.
The bottom of the holes is laid out with fresh manure. It can be replaced with not yet rotted compost. In the very middle of the hole, earth is covered in the form of a mound. The center of the seedling root is placed in this mound, then:
- straighten the roots;
- top up the earth;
- compact the soft mass, achieving a tight pressing of the soil to the roots.
Carefully check that the blackberry is placed completely upright. If planting is done in the fall, the bush is shed with mullein or liquid compost. 0.01 m of mulch is poured from above. On top of it, blackberries are intensively shed again. In winter, plantings are covered so that they do not weather and are protected from frost.
But it does not always make sense to plant blackberries with container seedlings. If a variety or hybrid does not produce young offspring, division of the bushes must be used. This procedure should be carried out earlier than the autumn pruning. Otherwise, the plant will not be able to thoroughly gain a foothold before the early cold weather. The first step (24-48 hours before work) is to thoroughly water the desired places.
Planting split bushes in dry soil is dangerous. There is a high chance that the roots will be broken. A groove is prepared along the perimeter of the site (within a radius of 0.3-0.4 m) from the neck of the root. This is done with a spade. All roots that are outside the groove are immediately chopped off.
Further, the shrub is carefully dug up, lifting alternately from all sides. When the blackberry is almost free, it is shaken a little, freeing the rhizome from the soil. You can divide the root into fragments with a garden knife. All cut parts must have at least one fresh shoot ending in roots. But the old stems on the delenka should not be.
Pruners are used to remove broken and rotten roots. Then the shoots are shortened to 0.3 m. Each cut-off area should have 2 or 3 processes. In this case, all roots must have at least 1 bud growing underground. Prepared seedlings are planted immediately on a permanent site, in pre-formed pits.
Since blackberry shoots reach a length of 5-7 m, it is undesirable to save space when planting split bushes. It is recommended to leave gaps of at least 3 m. Row spacing is approximately 2 m. Dividing the bush allows you to get 5 seedlings from each bush. Important: you can plant shoots even without roots - if there are at least particles of roots.
An alternative technique is the use of horizontal layers. They do it like this:
- from August 1 to August 8, the shoots that have grown over the current year are bent to the soil;
- without separating from the bushes, drop the shoot on 1 bayonet;
- the top of the shoot is left on the surface;
- cut off the rest by 0.1 m to block further growth;
- compact the soil, fix the shoots with stones or studs;
- mulch the landing site.
Later, the place where the blackberry shoot is buried is systematically shed. From about October 1 to October 5, with the help of a pitchfork, they dig out part of the bush along with rooted seedlings. It is much more reliable and safer than using a shovel. Now the seedlings are cut and transplanted in the chosen place.Another option is to propagate blackberries with root cuttings: this method allows you to get 70% of seedlings if you follow all the principles of agricultural technology.
You will need to work in November. Then the blackberry bush is dug up and the cuttings are cut, after which they are buried again. For planting, cuttings are suitable, the length of which ranges from 0.06 to 0.09 m, then they are transferred to a bag; this package is placed in the basement or refrigerator. Air heating during storage should not exceed 5 degrees Celsius, every 5 or 7 days the planting material is ventilated and evaluated externally. Around February 24-28, the cuttings are laid out in a container, sprinkled a little with soil and germinated on the windowsill; transplantation is carried out in April.
How to care?
Autumn care for garden blackberries includes:
- pruning;
- top dressing;
- cover from the cold.
It is required to cut off unnecessary and interfering shoots systematically. Only under this condition is it possible to ensure the full development of the bushes. But the first time to cut blackberries is required only in the second season. Later, the shrub will have to be cut every 2 years. In an adult plant, all branches that have ceased to bear fruit must be removed in the fall.
Attention: blackberries grown without shelter should be shortened to 1.5 meters. During autumn pruning, any dry lash is immediately cut off, as well as shoots that have ceased to bear fruit. Do it strictly at ground level. Additionally, at this point, get rid of any branches that prevent the formation of shrubs. If there are lashes that are capable of producing a crop, they are pinched.
Garbage remaining after pruning is immediately taken out of the site and immediately burned there. This technique ensures the safety of plantings from any infections.When growing blackberries in the fall, it is imperative to properly feed the plantings in September or October. During this period, phosphorus and potassium compounds are introduced, which do not contain even a small amount of chlorine.
Additionally, all plants must be fed with compost and superphosphate. After their laying out, the earth is supposed to be dug up. Whatever fertilizers are applied, the garden plot is pre-watered. From natural fertilizers use wood ash. It needs exactly 1 kg per 1 sq. m.
How to prepare for winter?
Blackberries can survive at temperatures as low as -20 degrees. However, preparation for winter is still required. The fact is that a sharp cold snap can destroy the landing. In addition, the Russian climate is extremely harsh and unpredictable. Even relatively warm regions often suffer from severe frosts.
In coastal areas, the situation is better, but there you have to be wary of winter winds, especially when the humidity is high. These factors need to be taken into account. Upright varieties can tolerate cooling down to -30 degrees. But the varieties of blackberries that creep along the surface will not survive even a moderately cold winter without shelter.
It is better to make a shelter not focusing on the average annual temperature, but when establishing a stable frost of -5 degrees. Nevertheless, in the first autumn month, shelter is not made. It is recommended to cook it in the last days of October or in early November. Hurrying up with shelter, you can greatly harm the bush. If there is a positive temperature under the covering material, growth will continue and damping off will begin.
The roots will suffer from a lack of oxygen, and rotting will soon begin. As a result, instead of protection, the shelter kills the brambles.The plant can suffer not only from a lack of snow, but also from thaws. Covering material must be selected and laid in such a way as to exclude icing of the root system and buds, as well as damping. If, nevertheless, the underground part is forbidden, it will invariably die, and new seedlings will have to be looked for.
The recommended shelter scheme is the same as for grapes:
- the lashes are removed from the supports;
- laid out on the ground;
- fasten with pins.
Important: adult shoots can simply be tied without bending down. To prevent the sheltered bushes from getting wet, they are sprinkled with dry leaves, used corn cobs or spruce branches. Agrofibre is stretched from above.
To keep it in place, a frame is made, which is created using slate, wooden boxes or plywood. It should turn out to be a kind of "hut".
A prerequisite for success is the shelter of both the blackberry itself and the soil on which it grows. The fact is that it is the earth that warms. The gaps separating the rows are also covered with improvised means. In any household for this purpose there is burlap or plastic wrap. A more professional approach is to use agrofibre.
Poenka is categorically unsuitable in the southern regions, where winter temperatures often rise above zero degrees. Sharp jumps in temperature, the appearance of moisture due to thaws can destroy blackberries, as already mentioned. Film protection is needed where there are severe colds in winter that are not interrupted by a thaw. An auxiliary means of protection in this case is a stable snow cover. Another requirement is the use of mulch, which fills the gap from the film to the shoots.
In the absence of such a filler, you can be afraid of freezing branches.Of the more modern solutions, you can use spunbond. It prevents the shrub from rotting even during thaws. But he also has a weakness - the likelihood of getting wet. In order for the passed water to linger, mulch must be placed under the spunbond.
The lighter the agrofibre, the better. Such material copes well with frost protection, but warms up less in spring. In the northern regions of Russia, a synthetic winterizer is placed on top of dry leaves. However, this option is unsuitable in conditions of little snowy warm winters. Regardless of the region, common mistakes must be taken into account.
It is forbidden to use sawdust for mulching blackberries. They easily absorb moisture from the air, and when frost sets in, pieces of ice appear. When the heat returns, the shelter slowly warms up, begins to rot. As a result, the bush dies. In the "favorable" case, it will develop incorrectly.
Inexperienced farmers use straw as mulch. However, rodents quickly appear in the straw. And if they do not appear, then cleaning the rotted straw is very difficult. Any covering material must be removed before the buds swell. Watering, charging blackberries with moisture, should be carried out before the onset of frost.
In addition to shelter and watering, it is required to deal with the attacks of pests and microscopic fungi. The shrub is sprayed with copper sulfate. But you can use branded fungicides. Choosing agrofibre with a density of 50 g per 1 sq. see, you have to lay out a couple of layers. And if the density is twice as high, you need to use 1 layer; a more economical option is the harvesting of spruce and pine spruce branches, which is used on its own or together with agrofibre.
You will learn how to plant blackberries in the fall and care for them in the video below.