The subtleties of pruning fruit trees
Any novice gardener comes to master the principles and rules of pruning fruit trees. Without the procedure, the plant begins to grow with additional shoots and produce fewer fruits, moreover, pests actively multiply on it.
Objectives of the procedure
Even stone fruit trees need to be pruned after some time, despite the fact that they are very young. Post-planting pruning of seedlings leads to early yields, but the "skeleton" necessary for further development is not formed.
Pruning of fruit trees must be carried out according to the rules, otherwise you can only do harm. A large number of fruits on a thin trunk causes exhaustion, the plant begins to wither and may eventually dry out.
Thinning significantly increases the life of the fruit tree. A smaller amount of foliage will allow for effective preventive measures against insects.
A tree that is properly pruned develops better wood throughout the trunk. In addition, plants that have a lot of branches bring a low yield, and the fruits are small. With dense foliage, the flowers do not receive enough light, therefore they often fall off, and the fruits at the ripening stage turn out to be sour, without the aroma characteristic of the tree.
If the plant is not cut, it will begin to stretch upward faster, caring for it becomes more complicated, it is not possible to spray the entire crown.Humidity, which is stored inside a dense crown, is the main cause of the appearance of fungal diseases. After the rain has passed, the moisture necessary for the development of small spores remains on the leaves. In this case, pruning can be perceived as an additional preventive measure when caring for an orchard.
In agricultural technology, pruning has been and remains one of the most important techniques to form a good, fruitful garden. Removing unnecessary branches leads to durability and resistance to cold.
Trees can be pruned in two ways:
- thin out;
- shorten.
When thinning, the branches are removed completely, and when shortened, only from the first kidney upwards.
When the gardener removes what he thinks are unnecessary branches, the plant begins to make up for what was lost, and its growth intensifies, numerous growths appear, the main task is to form the crown correctly at this time, leaving only those branches that are able to create a strong skeleton.
It is the skeletal branches that must be shortened so that growths appear on them, on which fruits will sing in the future. Additional processes should be cut more strongly so that they do not interfere with the main ones. The formation of a tree is carried out within five years, and for some late varieties of apple trees - up to ten years.
During the fruiting period, the number of branches increases, extra shoots thickening the crown appear, so the fruits are located inside behind the foliage, they do not receive enough light there, therefore they ripen unsweetened. That is why it is necessary to shorten annual shoots, sometimes they need to be removed entirely, observing the order of sap flow.
The branches are also cut off at the fruiting stage, when a lot of overgrowing branches form on the crown, as a result, inside the whole tree, the old shoots begin to wither, dry out and break. The gardener is required to systematically thin out the crown, remove small and unnecessary branches. When the fruiting period ends, the tree is rejuvenated, in the future the crop will only grow if productive shoots are left.
Timing
Fruit trees need to be pruned in spring, autumn and summer, they are dormant in winter. At the same time, the time for shortening the branches depends on the region where the tree grows. The autumn procedure is not recommended in the northern and central regions of our country, because frosts come early there, and the tree does not have time to close its wounds, sap flow stops, and the plant may simply die.
For these regions, it is recommended to prune in early spring, when the air temperature is already positive. They begin to tidy up the garden with old trees, because buds bloom faster on them. All unnecessary branches should be cut before buds open.
In the south of the country, some gardeners remove extra shoots in winter, as there are no severe frosts. During this period, the procedure helps to rejuvenate the plant, to give young seedlings the correct shape. It is necessary so that the young tree does not begin to bear fruit too early, which negatively affects its development as a whole. If a tree has been fruitful for several years in a row, then it needs to be allowed to rest.
If we talk about the ideal size of a tree, then it should not exceed three meters in height. The width of the crown in diameter should also be 3 meters.Pruning extra branches in the summer improves the quality of the fruit, the wounds on the tree heal quickly, since the juice is actively produced, which completely covers the cut.
Experienced gardeners prefer the procedure carried out in early spring, because during the summer and autumn the plant has time to recover.
In summer, not all trees can be cut, preferably only those that are three years old. In spring and autumn, crown formation is allowed on annual shoots. After ten years, the tree is considered old, it can no longer bear fruit, as before, so it is rejuvenated by removing most of the old shoots. There should not be more than three cuts on one branch.
This procedure is recommended for almost all fruit trees. In the spring, they start with apple trees and pears, as they are frost-resistant.
It is better to start shaping cherries, apricots and plums when there are already foliage on the branches, since early pruning leads to fungus damage to the saw cuts.
Types and methods of trimming
An inexperienced gardener does not know that there are different pruning of fruit trees. Although the process is always reduced to one action - the removal of unnecessary branches, the goal of such work may vary. She happens:
- formative;
- regulatory;
- rejuvenating;
- restorative;
- sanitary.
When the main goal of the gardener is to make the correct shape of the crown, this procedure is called shaping. It is best to start work in February and early March, when active sap flow begins. If you are late, then the tree will develop more slowly, there will be practically no harvest.
The gardener is required to correctly place the skeletal guides, which in the future will be a frame that can hold the total weight of the fruit.
A young, actively growing tree needs to be adjusted minimally in order to only provide the fruits with the necessary amount of light. This procedure is called regulatory pruning, it is carried out from February to April or at the end of summer.
Old trees are rejuvenated, the gardener, by removing old branches, stimulates the growth of new, more viable ones. On any tree, you will need to remove old and dried shoots. Such a restorative procedure can be carried out at any time of the year, but it is better in the spring.
If the gardener pursues as his main goal the improvement of the orchard, then sanitization will be required, which is carried out at any convenient time, but not in winter.
Shoots that are damaged by insects or disease are removed, they are removed at the root, and it is necessary to process the tools after that.
Required Tools
To work in the garden, you will need a secateurs, through which you can quickly and easily remove small branches. Such garden shears have a ratchet mechanism, so that the cut is of high quality, you need to regularly sharpen the blades.
Construction saws are completely unsuitable for processing fruit trees; it is necessary to use a special hacksaw with shallow gaps between the teeth and high-quality sharpening.
It is necessary to remove processes that are at a distance of two meters, an elongated pruner, the design of which provides for an elongated handle. You can purchase a model with a telescopic handle that allows you to adjust the cutting height.
Massive trunks are removed only with a chainsaw. It is also necessary to have a stepladder, special clothing, including gloves, on hand.
It is better to wear goggles so that wood chips do not get into your eyes.
How to cut?
For beginners, there is a tree pruning scheme, as it can be difficult for them to decide where to start. The shoots at the top, which resemble crow's feet, are removed first. Crossing shoots next in line, be sure to cut off those that grow towards the ground. Young growth appears on the trunk over time, it is also removed.
Young and old trees form differently. If this is only a seedling, then before the start of the fruiting period, it is necessary to form a future frame. The crown should grow evenly in all directions, one-year-old branches are removed, which lead to a thickening of the crown. When everything is done correctly, after a few years an excellent fruit-bearing frame forms on the tree.
Pruning of young trees is done every year due to the intensity of growth. It is best to carry out the procedure in the fall.
In adult plants, crown formation is much easier. The main thing is to remove the branches that are already old, ovaries practically do not form on them, they only consume the vitality of the plant. The first time the crown is reduced several levels down, the shoots are removed only from the south side.
Later, the "tops" that formed after the previous procedure are removed. The rest of the crown rejuvenates gradually, the best time is late autumn and winter.
Aftercare
After pruning, it is necessary to continue to care for the trees. Treat them from insects, if possible, treat the saw cuts with lime or pitch, which you can cook yourself. This requirement is mandatory for shoots whose diameter was more than one centimeter. You can replace var and lime with paint, which contains drying oil.
In the place where the branch was removed, new shoots will form, they are cut off with a pruner.Plants must be fertilized so that it receives the necessary amount of trace elements for further development. Potassium chloride, phosphorus are added under the root, simple ash can be used.
See the following video for a master class on pruning fruit trees.