Why do strawberry leaves turn yellow and how to deal with this phenomenon?
Many summer residents have encountered yellowing of the leaves of strawberries. This phenomenon is called chlorosis and is quite common. The reasons for this process are many factors, by paying attention to which and avoiding a number of mistakes, you can correct the situation and prevent its repetition in the future.
What are the reasons?
There are quite a few reasons why strawberry leaves turn yellow. Sometimes several factors overlap each other and give an unpleasant effect. Therefore, it can be difficult to understand the true state of affairs not only for beginners, but also for quite experienced summer residents. Usually the source of the problem is a number of factors.
- Mistakes in agriculture.
- One of the most common mistakes novice gardeners make is the wrong arrangement of beds on the site. Many summer residents often seek to place a plantation in the sun. It is absolutely impossible to do this.
- In addition to location, the timing of planting strawberry seedlings in open ground is often violated. The ideal landing time is the second half of July. During the time remaining before the winter cold, the young plant will have time to get stronger and enter the winter in optimal condition.
With a later planting, the shoots do not have time to gain strength, winter in a weakened form, so the next season they begin to turn yellow and wither.
- Surrounding plants also affect the condition of the strawberry leaf. So, with the close growth of raspberries and tulips, there is a risk of the appearance of a raspberry-strawberry weevil, the appearance of which also leads to a deterioration in the condition of the leaves. In addition, the culture cannot be planted in areas where solanaceous and composite flowers grew before it. And the soil, where cereals previously grew and there were beds with radishes, garlic and parsley, on the contrary, is very favorable for strawberries. Another reason for the occurrence of yellowness is too close placement of the bushes to each other. With this arrangement, plants lack nutrients and space, which is why they begin to compete with each other for resources. As a result, weaker shoots begin to turn yellow and wither.
- Micronutrient deficiencies. The most common cause of yellow leaves is magnesium starvation, which is due to the fact that magnesium is involved in photosynthesis and is contained in chlorophyll. Bushes growing on highly acidic and infertile soils especially suffer from a lack of magnesium. The lower leaves of such plants become yellow, brown and even purple, dry and eventually die off.
Nitrogen and iron are also important for plants, with a lack of them, the leaves become bright yellow, and sometimes lemon.
- Diseases. The defeat of a non-infectious disease with chlorosis also leads to yellowing of the green mass. The disease appears for the following reasons: in the spring months, in the cold earth, the roots of plants poorly absorb moisture and nutrients, because of this, the leaves do not receive the trace elements they need and turn yellow. No less common is infectious xanthosis.The disease also manifests itself in the yellowing of the leaves and is carried by aphids, which lay their eggs in the soil in summer and infect it. In addition, the aphid is a carrier of another disease - marginal yellowing, in which not the entire leaf is affected by yellowness, but only its edges. As a result of this disease, there is a general shredding of the bushes and their pressing to the ground.
- Poor watering. Lack of moisture also leads to yellowing of the leaves. However, in this case, the main thing is not to overdo it. Abundant watering can lead to loss of taste, the appearance of watery fruits and cause fungal diseases.
- Pests. The yellowness of the leaves is often due to the detrimental effects of the May beetle, raspberry-strawberry weevil, slobber slobber and spider mites.
What to do with it?
For each of the causes of yellowing of the leaf cover there are ways to fight.
- Protect plants from excessive sun the right choice of place when forming strawberry beds. Plantations should be placed in such a way that during daylight hours the plants are both in the sun and in the shade. To do this, select areas near a low shrub or tall flowers that can create light shading for strawberry bushes.
- Mineral deficiencies can be combated by regular fertilizing and interseasonal fertilization of the soil. Magnesium deficiency replenished due to the root treatment of the bushes with a composition prepared from 15 g of magnesium sulfate and 10 liters of water. Plants should receive at least two magnesium supplements 7 days apart. Nitrogen deficiency is easily eliminated if strawberries are treated with ammonium nitrate, 25 g of which should be diluted in 10 liters of water.
In addition to the high nitrogen content, ammonium nitrate contains ammonia, which repels many pests from the plant, including the main enemy of deciduous crops - the Maybug.
- Boron deficiency also causes yellowness and is treated by foliar application of a solution of boric acid. To prepare such a composition, it is enough to mix 30 drops of iodine, one teaspoon of boric acid and a glass of ash with ten liters of cool water. Some summer residents use a different composition, consisting of 3 g of potassium permanganate, half a teaspoon of boric acid, one tablespoon of urea, half a glass wood ash and ten liters of water.
- iron deficiency also negatively affects the condition of the leaf cover and is eliminated by the introduction of "Ferrovit", "Ferrilen", "Micro-Fe" and the like. In addition, it is necessary to carefully monitor the level of soil acidity. The ideal pH for strawberries is 6-6.5. Such soils are considered slightly acidic and are the best suited for growing strawberries.
- Infectious and non-infectious leaf diseases are treated with the help of both folk remedies and ready-made preparations, namely:
- with non-infectious chlorosis, it is enough to water the plants with warm water and from time to time spray with iron-containing compounds;
- xanthosis is a more serious disease and is rather difficult to treat, sometimes it is more expedient to remove and burn diseased plants than to cure them; the main carrier of this disease is aphid, whose eggs remain in the ground for a long time and infect new plants, to destroy eggs and adult aphids, strawberry bushes must be sprayed with a 1.5% Nitrafen solution, and a month before harvesting the first crop, treatment should be stopped.
- The lack of moisture, which causes yellowing of the green mass, is eliminated by regular watering. It is recommended to water the culture in the early morning. This requirement is due to the fact that before the night temperature drops, the soil surface must have time to dry. The average water consumption for irrigating one square meter of plantation is 10–12 liters. To prevent intense evaporation and retain moisture in the root zone, the soil around the bushes must be mulched with cut grass, sawdust or straw.
- Pest control is also an important measure to prevent yellowing. The best option for the destruction of insects is the treatment of plants with "Fitoverm" - a biological agent that effectively destroys pests and does not harm the plants themselves. The drug is applied by spraying, the first of which is performed in June just before flowering. The second and third treatments are performed at intervals of 14 days. Three treatments are usually enough to free the plant from parasites. To achieve the best result, biological agents should alternate with chemical ones, such as Iskra and Fitoverm.
During the fruiting period, chemical preparations are not treated, and after the last harvest, the bushes are treated with a soapy solution with the addition of vegetable oil, garlic infusion and tobacco dust.
Prevention and proper care
Timely preventive measures will help not only to avoid yellowing of the leaves, but also eliminate the need to take emergency measures. So, to prevent sunburn, it is necessary to take care of creating scattering screens, which can be plants growing in the neighborhood or man-made structures. Plants should be watered with warm water. The ideal option would be the organization of a drip irrigation system. As a preventive measure, before planting a crop on a garden bed, it is necessary to introduce humus and nitrogen fertilizers into the soil, which will lead to the normalization and balance of the soil composition and will not require emergency fertilizing during crop growth.
Preventive disinfection of the soil in the spring will not interfere either. For this, a weak solution of potassium permanganate is usually used, which kills most pathogenic bacteria. To prepare it, you need to dilute 5 grams of the substance in ten liters of warm water. And the use of the same solution, but heated to the state of boiling water, will help to cope not only with bacteria, but also completely exterminate the worst strawberry-strawberry enemies - slobber and spider mites. And also, as a prevention of the appearance of pests, you can populate the site with predatory insects: ladybugs, hoverflies and ground beetles.
Thus, yellowed strawberry leaves are not a death sentence for the plant. It is possible and necessary to deal with such an anomaly.This requires only strict adherence to the rules of agricultural technology, timely application of top dressing, monitoring the condition of the soil and preventing the appearance of pests. Compliance with these rules and the timely implementation of preventive measures will completely eliminate or minimize the risk of yellowing of the leaves, as well as ensure a rich harvest.
You will learn more about the proper care of strawberries in the following video.