Rules for planting onion sets in open ground
Perhaps, few hot dishes or salads are complete without onions. This vegetable not only has a bright and memorable taste, but also fills the body with vitamins, which explains its widespread popularity. However, in order to enjoy a rich harvest, you first have to work hard and take good care of the onions. Of course, one cannot fail to mention the importance of the correct planting of onion sets in open ground.
Peculiarities
The main feature of the onion is that only if the correct temperature is observed, it will be possible to successfully grow it. If a mistake is made in this matter, then it will either “be born” with too small bulbs, or it will upset the appearance of arrows. This point can be explained by understanding the life cycle of culture. Ideally, in the first year, the onion is poured with sugar, and in the second year it blooms, resulting in the formation of a “nigella”, which is a cluster of small seeds.
But this situation occurs only in hot dry weather prevailing in the semi-deserts of Asia. As you might guess, Russian gardeners are forced to act in different conditions. Therefore, in the first year, the onion produces only a small fruit, unsuitable for nutrition, called sevok, the next year, the usual turnips are obtained from the planted sevka, and a year later - seeds.
Onions are very picky about both storage temperature and planting.Staying in the winter in the cold, ranging from five to ten degrees with a plus sign, ensures that in the spring the bulbs can only bloom.
If active growth of green mass is necessary, then the temperature should be higher - from eighteen to twenty degrees with a plus sign. It is achieved by placing planting material in warm, heated rooms, but not near working batteries. In general, in order to achieve dense healthy turnips instead of arrows from the culture, it is necessary to ensure that during storage the temperature reaches twenty degrees with a plus sign, and during planting, the soil temperature reaches an interval of ten to twelve degrees with a plus sign.
In addition, immediately before planting, it is worth heating the sevok itself to plus forty degrees in the sun or keeping it in cold water.
Timing
In general, the exact dates for planting seedlings on the beds are determined according to the weather and the degree of soil warming. The onion is not afraid of cold weather, but if you plant it in cold ground, a large number of arrows will appear, which, in turn, leads to a decrease in yield.
In addition, at the initial stages, the culture will require a lot of moisture, which suggests that after the end of the frost, a large amount of time should not pass. Therefore, for example, for the Leningrad region and the Moscow region, experts advise starting planting in early May. If we are talking about the Siberian region or the Far East, then you will have to start in the middle or even at the end of the month. In the southern regions, work begins in early April or even at the end of March. The Volga region implies a landing at the end of April or at the beginning of May.
In any case, landing on a turnip should not be in a hurry, so as not to get arrows due to the returning frosts, characterized by temperature differences both day and night. But it is also dangerous to delay, because a late-planted set will lead to the appearance of a large number of feathers, and the turnips themselves will not develop. After some time, the green mass will wither, but the fruits themselves will not ripen.
Those who believe in folk signs determine the desired date by looking at the bird cherry - as soon as it blooms, then you can do onions. The exact dates are determined by the lunar calendar.
The seedlings selected for planting should be divided by size into two groups, simultaneously eliminating diseased, dried, rotten and other damaged samples. The landing of small ones will take place in early spring, approximately at the end of April. So she has enough time to grow to the required size. In addition, do not be afraid of the appearance of flowering shoots - the inferiority of the bulbs will not give them the opportunity. Large sets are planted later, around May.
Seed selection
Before choosing a specific variety, you should figure out where the sets come from.
- Small onions can be obtained by sowing chernushki - dark-colored seeds. In early May, they are first soaked in potassium permanganate for half a day to prevent diseases, after which they are sown on the same beds where ordinary onions sprout. Leave between them you will need about one centimeter.
- Seeds can also be grown as seedlings. Seeds are deepened in containers with nutrient soil, they are provided with proper watering from a sprinkler, lighting and top dressing. When they germinate, the seedlings are taken out to a room with a lower temperature, for example, to a balcony.As soon as the bulbs have feathers twelve to fifteen centimeters high, they can be sent to open ground. In this case, it will not be necessary to wait for some excessively warm temperature - it is enough for the earth to simply thaw.
Onions react to the length of daylight hours, so for planting it is best to choose those varieties that are bred or adapted for a particular area. For example, varieties that are the brainchild of breeders in the north, in the south, where daylight hours are short, will not form a bulb at all.
When choosing varieties for the garden, it is better to combine different varieties that differ in taste. All over central Russia, the proven "old men" Spassky, Strigunovsky, Bessonovsky, Pogarsky and others with a wide regionalization are planted. Such spicy varieties as Centurion and Golden Semko, as well as the peninsular Hercules, Zolotnichok and Sputnik are also popular.
Exceptionally positive reviews are found in the Stuttgarter Riesen variety, which does not rot, develops quickly and has an unusual spicy taste. “Centurion” is also considered worthy - it has an outstanding keeping quality and piquant taste. It is better for beginner gardeners to choose from five varieties in order to determine the ones they like the most in a few seasons. For convenience, it is better to choose a set that has a diameter of one to two centimeters - these bulbs ripen faster and develop more rapidly. There is an unspoken rule to grow sweet bulbs using seedlings.
The bulbs themselves should not be damaged or somehow mechanically damaged. Spots, mold, and any suspicious manifestations should be avoided.Lightly pressing on the material, it is important to feel its density. In addition, the upper skins should be removed without problems. It is better to buy dry sets, but if it is slightly moistened, then it’s not scary - you can dry it at home by spreading the fruits on paper.
However, excessively moist material with emerging roots and sprouts does not need to be purchased.
By the way, dryness can be checked if you take a handful of fruit in your hand and shake it well. The rustling that appears will guarantee the dryness of the material. It is worth avoiding purchases in cold weather at the market, as it happens to get frost-bitten material, which in the future will not bear fruit.
It is better to do this when the temperature rises above zero. The seed brought home must be dried. To do this, it is laid out on a flat surface, for example, on a table, where air easily penetrates, providing ventilation. A few days before the planned sowing, the bulbs are moved and peeled.
Soil preparation
Before preparing the site, it must be properly selected. Of course, there should be a lot of light in order to somehow get closer to Asian conditions, and enough fresh air, which is responsible for regular ventilation, away from bushes and trees. It is important that the soil is not clay, but sandy loam or peat. It is forbidden to plant sevok in lowlands with heavy, overly moist soils. Steep cliffs, characterized by fluid stagnation, also pose a certain danger.
The issue of groundwater should not be overlooked either - they cannot be located at a depth of less than fifty centimeters. Potatoes, peas, cabbage and cucumbers will be ideal predecessors.Together with onions, they do not have common pests and diseases, so you should not expect a danger to the culture. In addition, the cultivation of the above crops requires abundant fertilizing, so the onion will initially be on nutritious soil. At the same time, in no case should onions be sent to the beds where other varieties of it, garlic or carrots used to live. Fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus are usually applied in the fall, and those that contain nitrogen in the spring.
Even in the fall, it is recommended to start fighting weeds, since the culture itself copes extremely poorly with them. The site is dug up to the depth of a shovel, that is, somewhere to a depth of fifteen to twenty centimeters. Then you should wait for the appearance of weeds and treat them with a chemical solution. It is best to give preference to the drug "Tornado" - its 75 milliliters are diluted in 3 liters of water, after which a hundred beds are processed with the resulting liquid. When the weeds die, they need to be removed and wait for the survivors to appear. After that, the digging is repeated.
Immediately before planting, the soil will have to be loosened and leveled, and, if desired, also rolled in order to get a flat surface, since the weak roots of the culture will not cope with dense clods of earth on their own. Usually one autumn digging is enough, and in the spring processing is carried out using a rake. It should be mentioned that the next year, onions cannot be planted in the same bed, the same can be said about the next two years. In other words, culture will be able to return only after three years. If, developing, the onion often hurt, then it will be possible to plant it again only after five years.
In autumn, compost, rotted manure (approximately five kilograms per square meter of plot), as well as fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus, are applied to the beds. You can add wood ash - one kilogram per square meter of beds. If the acidity of the soil is not satisfactory, then it is normalized with a lime mortar or crushed chalk. In general, the culture loves neutral and non-acidic soil.
Speaking about top dressing with organic matter, the main thing is that manure is introduced not fresh, but rotted. If fresh organics of this type were used for the previous crop grown, then you will have to wait another year before planting the set.
How to plant?
It will be correct to process the seedlings before planting if there is a possibility of infection with fungal diseases, which include peronosporosis or powdery mildew. Usually pink potassium permanganate is used for this purpose. If you want to get a head from a set, then the material is sent to open ground in its original state. If the sowing of onions should lead to the appearance of feathers, then a few days before the event, the top is cut off from the sets. This operation will help stimulate the active development of green mass.
The bed itself needs to be cleaned of the remnants of weeds, pebbles and other debris. It is important to sow in a well-lit area, because the shadow sometimes activates the processes of rotting the culture. It is a good idea to plant carrots, beets and cabbage next to the onion beds. True, there are some clarifications, cultures should not keep up early and thereby block the flow of sunlight. And also the distance between the ridges is important to maintain in the amount of 50 centimeters.
At what distance?
Shallow grooves for the bow are usually made in the direction from west to east so that between them there is a gap of twenty to twenty-five centimeters. So, the plant will be easier to care for. You can form recesses with a shovel. Between the bulbs themselves should remain from eight to twelve centimeters. This length is determined based on the size of the seed.
If the soil is dry, then it is important to water the grooves before planting. It is a good idea to add wood ash and sand there. Do not forget that if the bulbs are planted too densely, then when they grow up and feathers hatch, they will cast a shadow on each other, which means they will interfere with development.
To what depth?
It is necessary to deepen the sowing into the soil so that a “cap” of three centimeters of earth forms above them. If it is already, then the bulbs can go to the surface. As a result, the root system will not be able to consume the required amount of moisture, and the culture will die. If you plant seedlings to a great depth, then there will be no particular harm, but the shape of the future turnip will change. Of course, the taste and size will remain the same, but the elongated onion is unlikely to appeal to those who grow it for sale, or especially critical cooks.
In this way, the depth of the grooves themselves should vary from five to eight centimeters. In general, this indicator depends on whether mineral fertilizers are added or not. The sevka deepened “to the shoulders” will have to be overlaid with earth, pressed down, sprinkled and leveled everything on top.
Subtleties of care
The care of onion sets is quite traditional and consists of such steps as watering, protecting against insects, weeding from weeds and timely fertilization.In order for the onion to sprout without problems, it must be moderately watered twice a week, and then loosen the soil between the rows. In the first two weeks, watering can be done more often - two or three times for seven days. Of course, the exact amount is determined by the condition of the soil. Loosening will simplify the access of oxygen to the roots. It must be carried out six times during the growing season, without going deeper into the ground by more than five centimeters.
When the turnip begins to form, the amount of watering is reduced. Finally, about a month before the harvest, irrigation will have to be suspended. Of course, in the event of a sudden drought, it is recommended to make an exception and carry out sprinkling. Young shoots can die due to weeds, so this problem also needs to be addressed in a timely manner.
However, bulbs should not be hilled or loosened too close to the rows. Therefore, weeds must be removed manually.
With regards to top dressing, it is possible to choose: to carry out either one top dressing per season, or several top dressings per season, or not to fertilize at all if the soil is nutritious and seasoned with organic matter in advance since autumn. In case of poor soil, natural fertilizers are applied first, such as bird droppings and mullein. This happens a month after landing on open ground. The time for the second feeding comes when the turnip is formed. At this point, it is important to feed the onion with potassium and phosphorus. It is important to do this when the soil is pre-moistened.
There is also another feeding scheme. Two weeks after planting, the bulbs receive fertilizer containing nitrogen. This substance will help to cope with the existing yellowness and promote growth.To do this, in a bucket of settled water, 30 grams of potassium chloride, 50 grams of superphosphate and 40 grams of ammonium nitrate are diluted. It will take about one and a half liters of solution per square meter of beds.
After two or three weeks, the next top dressing should take place, for which organic matter is suitable. The easiest way is to use compost or mullein. Finally, after another thirty days, when the harvest is already approaching, the final part of the fertilizer is applied, which necessarily includes phosphorus and potassium. For example, 300 grams of ash are dissolved in a bucket of hot water and infused for two days. After that, each square meter of the bed is watered with two liters of fertilizer.
Regular loosening is important in order to destroy the crust, which makes it difficult for oxygen to reach the root system, and hence the growth of the plant itself. Until shoots appear, you need to loosen the ground between the rows, and then the ridges themselves. When the turnips begin to grow, it will be necessary to carefully move the soil away from them. This procedure will provoke even greater growth of the fetus.
You need to collect onions when new feathers stop appearing, and the existing green mass begins to wither and even fall off. At the same time, the neck becomes thinner and softer, and the fruits have a unique color characteristic of a particular variety. The plant is uprooted entirely from the ground.
It is better not to postpone the collection for a long time, since exposure to low temperatures at night and in the morning will negatively affect further keeping quality. The finished crop must be kept for one day in a bright place illuminated throughout the day, and then it can already be sent for long-term storage. Dried leaves are cut to a length of five or ten centimeters.It should be mentioned that the sevok is not afraid of spring frosts, but temperatures from minus two to minus four degrees can still harm plantings.
Of course, one cannot ignore such an important topic as protecting a plant from diseases and insect attacks. To cope with both tasks, you can spray the bulbs with a universal remedy. To prepare it, you will need to mix a teaspoon of copper sulfate or copper oxychloride with 35 milliliters of liquid or grated solid soap. The resulting substance is diluted in 10 liters of settled water. It will be necessary to process the resulting solution once every two weeks.
Secrets of a rich harvest
The rules for pre-treatment of onion sets help to prepare the material with high quality in order to then get an extensive harvest. If the bulbs were stored at a warm temperature in a room with a humidity of 60 to 70%, then no additional action is required. Seven days before planting, the fruits are sorted out, poor-quality specimens are thrown away, and the rest are divided by size. The smallest should have a diameter not exceeding one and a half centimeters. They need to be planted first.
A bulb with a diameter ranging from one and a half to two centimeters is considered the most suitable for planting. The only thing is that the soil should warm up enough. Finally, large sets, with a diameter of more than three centimeters, are more suitable for growing feathers or turnips for canning. It is important to be prepared that arrows often give such fruits.
If the sets were stored at low temperatures, then two or three weeks before planting, they will need to be taken to a warm space to dry. For example, the box can be placed at home near the battery.
After that, calibration takes place, and the sevok is sent for heating. It is important that for eight hours the onions are at a temperature of plus forty degrees, which will help get rid of infections. To do this, it is advised to place the sevka in a cardboard box, and then put it on the battery. Immediately before planting, the material is soaked either in a low concentration fertilizer solution or in hot water for a period of up to twenty-four hours (minimum twelve hours). Another fifteen minutes the onion should spend in a solution of pink potassium permanganate or fungicide. Then the fruits must be washed.
If in the country it is found that the onion sets do not sprout or do it very poorly, then perhaps either the temperature is too low, or there is little moisture in the soil, since the frosts have long ended and the snow has also melted for a long time. In the first case, the beds should be covered with special material for the night, which will help the bulbs hatch faster. In the second case, abundant irrigation will be the solution.
It is important that the water is not too cold. If the feathers grow short, and their number leaves to be expected, then the bulbs do not have enough nitrogen; slowly forming pale leaves indicate a lack of nitrogen. If the feathers turn gray, and the edge from the even one becomes a little torn, then we can conclude that there is a lack of potassium. Finally, drying bulbs most often signal a lack of phosphorus.
It should also clarify the issue with the arrows, which strain most gardeners. In general, the arrows are rather dense and rigid stems on which the ovaries of flowers are located.If there are few of them, then they do not bring much harm, but if the number of these parts of the plant increases, then this worsens the condition of the fruit, since all the nutrients go into them.
The turnip itself is miniature, weak and, most often, does not survive until the next spring. It is possible to prevent the appearance of stems if the seedlings themselves are processed. As a rule, large material is immersed for one minute in water brought to fifty degrees Celsius. Then the sevok is wrapped in a warm, damp cloth for twenty-four hours, after which it stays in water at room temperature for two days.
One of the main mistakes gardeners made when planting onion sets is the use of the same beds. As mentioned above, the crop rotation rule must be observed. If you break it, then a variety of diseases will begin to develop on the onion, insects will actively attack it, and the soil will become poorer.
It is also important to remember that the break after carrots and garlic should be the same as after the onion itself - that is, from three to five years. Experts also recommend not cutting green feathers, as this procedure can affect the size of the fetus itself.
It is better to grow some plants exclusively for the collection of tops, and others - only for turnips.
For information on how to prepare and plant onion sets, see the following video.