Raspberry "Vera": variety description, planting and care
There are raspberries in almost every garden. This unpretentious shrub enjoys the well-deserved love of all generations of a large army of gardeners.
For a long time, scientists-breeders have bred a large number of raspberry varieties corresponding to different climatic zones of our vast country, and this range is constantly updated. At the same time, there are old, proven varieties that have been grown for decades. One of these varieties is Vera.
History of creation
Raspberry Vera was bred in the mid-80s of the last century at the M.A. Lisavenko Research Institute of Horticulture of Siberia, located in Barnaul. In 1989, the berry was included in the State Register of Variety Testing and recommended for cultivation in the Central Black Earth, Volga-Vyatka and West Siberian regions.
Its "parents" are popular varieties: Kaliningradskaya, Novosti Kuzmina, Barnaulskaya. They have proven themselves well when grown in various climatic conditions.
Variety characteristics
Raspberry Vera bushes are semi-spreading, medium-sized, 160 - 180 cm high, leafy. Shoot formation is average. Young, annual green shoots are slightly curved at the top. Soft spikes of small length are evenly spaced along the entire length of the stem. In the second year, the shoots turn brown, while acquiring flexibility, increased strength and elasticity.
It is the combination of these qualities that helps raspberries endure severe frosts without damage.For the winter, it must be bent down, and if there is not enough snow, then cover it, since the Vera variety is not winter-hardy.
Flowering is plentiful, usually begins in mid-June. Mass ripening occurs in the second half of July, although the first berries can already be tasted two weeks before. Thus, the variety belongs to the early ripening period.
The berries are medium-sized, weighing from 1.7 to 2.8 grams, bright red in color, obtuse in shape. Tasting score - 3.5 points on a five-point scale, the berries are fragrant and juicy, have a pleasant sweet and sour taste, do not crumble. Ripen at the same time, fruiting is not stretched. With proper care for the season, you can collect up to three kilograms of berries from one bush.
The separation is dry, but the drupes are very loose, they quickly lose their marketable appearance, therefore they are not intended for transportation. Basically, this variety is consumed fresh and used for harvesting for the winter.
The description of the variety has both positive and negative sides. The advantages include the following qualities:
- stable annual fruiting;
- high yield;
- early ripening, which is very good for those regions where the summer is short.
Cons of this variety:
- poor winter hardiness: in severe snowless winters, good shelter is required;
- low drought resistance: regular watering is needed for abundant fruiting, especially during the ripening of berries;
- impossibility of transportation.
Landing
In order for raspberries to grow well and give high yields, you need to choose the right place for it. Well, if it is a small hill, which is not flooded by spring floods, with loose, fertile soil.
Important. Raspberries do not grow well in the shade, so you should not plant them under trees or near the walls of buildings.
The best time for planting is autumn (early September). Young bushes will overwinter under shelter and in the spring they will immediately grow. Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the site: dig it up and fertilize it.
As a fertilizer, you can take compost, humus or rotted manure. You can also add wood ash. Dolomite flour is added to acidic soils. If instead of organic it is planned to use mineral fertilizers, then it is better to prefer potash - up to 40 g per 1 m2 or superphosphate in the amount of 50-60 g per 1 m2.
Planting holes are dug about 30 cm deep and 60-70 cm in diameter. You can dig a trench of the appropriate depth and width.
The distance between the rows is kept 1.2 or 1.5 meters. In a row, bushes are planted with an interval of 60-70 cm. This is necessary for the convenience of caring for plants and airing plantings.
Seedlings are set vertically and carefully covered with earth, trying not to damage the roots. Then the soil is slightly tamped. The final stage of work is abundant watering, followed by mulching of plantings with organic materials: sawdust, peat, straw.
It should be noted that raspberries do not like stagnant water, so you need to consider good drainage or choose a place with a slight slope.
So that the shoots do not fill the entire area, when planting, you can dig sheets of slate around the perimeter. Planting material is best purchased at specialized nurseries or gardening stores. When buying, you need to pay attention to:
- dimensions - the smaller the seedling, the more likely it is to take root;
- stems should be short;
- the best option is a bush with 2-4 shoots.
In the northern regions, raspberry planting should be completed 30-40 days before the onset of cold weather, so that young plants have time to take root.
Care
Competent care includes some activities.
- Timely weeding.
- Regular abundant watering (it is very good if it is possible to install a drip system so that moisture gets directly to the roots of plants).
- Loosening (especially after rains to prevent the formation of a crust).
- Mulching (preferably after each watering). Mulch retains moisture in the soil, preventing it from evaporating.
- Top dressing. It is brought in in the spring and during the ripening of the berries. You can take mineral fertilizers (potassium or phosphorus) or organic matter: compost, humus, wood ash.
- Tie to supports. So that the raspberry stalks do not bend under the weight of the berries, stakes are driven in along the edges of the site, and a wire is pulled over them, to which the raspberries are tied.
- Pruning. It is carried out in spring and autumn after fruiting. Remove dried, weak, diseased shoots. Adjust their quantity so that the raspberries do not grow too densely.
- Protection from pests and diseases.
Spraying should be carried out before flowering and after picking berries.
The raspberry beetle and fly bring the most tangible harm. To protect against flies, it is necessary to treat raspberries with karbofos before flowering. The fly is most active at the time when the cherry blossoms, it is during this period that the plant needs to be treated.
If the flight of the fly (cherry blossom) was missed, then the drooping tops of the raspberry bushes will indicate the need to urgently take protective measures. In this case, it will be enough to cut off the tops that the fly has chosen and burn them. In no case should you leave it - pest larvae will easily overwinter in compost.
The beetle is active in the second half of May (toward the end of the month). If the raspberries have already been processed by this time, then you can postpone re-spraying until early June.
No less harm is done to raspberries and gray rot - a common disease that develops especially actively at high humidity. A significant part of the berries can also die from purple spotting.
With rot, spotting and similar diseases, raspberries should be treated with Fitosporin. Spraying should be done during the growing season. Also, treatment with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture will give a good effect. Re-treatment is carried out after the crop is harvested.
A good result is obtained by treatment with Zircon, a new generation drug that is designed to protect against fungal, bacterial and even viral diseases. In late autumn (before the onset of stable cold weather), raspberries need to be bent down. If there is not enough snow, it is necessary to cover with a suitable material.
You will learn more about how to care for raspberries in the following video.
Reviews
For many users, Vera is a favorite raspberry variety. Gardeners write that the berries are sweet, large, and the variety is predictable, even in the worst years you can expect a good harvest.
Some note that the seedlings grew for a long time, but they gave good, strong, green shoots. In general, consumer reviews are positive.