Cucumbers "Herman F1": variety description and cultivation
Despite the fact that the early ripe cucumber variety "Herman F1" appeared relatively recently, it quickly gained popularity among gardeners. Such success is due not only to excellent taste, but also to good germination and productivity.
Peculiarities
Cucumber "Herman F1" is an early hybrid, fruit ripening occurs 35-30 days after the appearance of the first shoots. The variety owes its appearance to the Dutch breeders of Monsanto.
The variety is thermophilic, suitable for growing in the southern regions. Growing in the middle climatic zone is also possible, but it is better to do this in a greenhouse or greenhouse. In the southern regions it can be grown in open ground.
The variety belongs to the hybrids of the first generation, that is, the seeds collected from the previous crop are not suitable for re-growing. Every year you need to purchase new seed material.
Seed germination is very high, usually reaching 100%. At the same time, the sprouts appear together, which means that the harvest ripens simultaneously on all the bushes.
The description of the bushes usually includes information about rather large spreading lashes with large rough leaves located loosely to each other.
It is recommended to form bushes in one stem, lashes are well suited for vertical cultivation - they do not break when fixed on trellises or under the weight of fruits.
The characteristic of the variety will be incomplete if you do not indicate that "Herman F1" refers to the parthenocarpic varieties of the hybrid. Only female flowers are formed on the bushes, which do not need pollination. One inflorescence forms up to 5-6 ovaries.
The yield of the variety is high and amounts to 25 kg per 1 m2. When grown in a greenhouse, the yield is usually slightly higher than when cultivating the crop in open ground. However, the latter is superior to greenhouse cucumbers in its taste.
The resulting fruits can be attributed to the gherkin type, the average length of which is 8-10 cm. The reviews of summer residents allow us to establish that the fruits can be large, but this negatively affects their taste.
Gherkins have an oblong shape and a diameter of 2.5-3 cm. The weight of each is about 80 g. The surface is rich green, sometimes dark green with pronounced roughness. The flesh is crisp and juicy, with a sweetish taste. This variety belongs to the salad, and is also suitable for conservation.
Advantages and disadvantages
Having appeared on the market, the German F1 variety won the trust of first European and then Russian summer residents. This is due to a number of advantages that these cucumbers have. Seeds usually do not require special labor-intensive preparation, but at the same time they show excellent germination.
The early maturity of cucumbers is also attractive to many gardeners, because it is possible to enjoy gherkins already a month and a half after planting. I am also pleased with the high yield of this variety.
The fruits have an attractive appearance, they remain fresh for a long time after harvest, which allows them to be grown for sale. Possessing good taste, this variety of cucumbers perfectly complements the taste of vegetable salads and cuts.When preserved, it does not change its taste, remaining dense and crispy.
Despite the immunity of the variety to some diseases characteristic of the culture, it is still not sufficiently resistant to fungal diseases, including rust. Usually the cause of damage to the bushes by the fungus is a violation of the principles of agricultural technology.
The disadvantages of the variety include the complexity of growing seedlings. It does not tolerate picking and transplanting into the ground or a greenhouse, therefore it requires certain knowledge, skills and patience from the gardener. Experienced summer residents recommend sowing a variety with a margin, since the loss of bushes at the stage of growing seedlings is usually unavoidable. Of course, this entails additional costs and increases the complexity of growing seedlings.
Like most varieties of cucumbers, variety "Herman F1" does not tolerate temperature drops, sudden temperature changes.
It should not be planted in cold soil.
Landing Rules
Like most modern hybrids of European production, German F1 seeds are treated with special disinfectants and growth-stimulating compounds, therefore, they do not require preliminary preparation. The manufacturer pays special attention that the seed material should not be soaked in water.
The gardener only needs to prepare the soil. Cucumbers give a good harvest on light fertile soils, they are very demanding on the access of oxygen to the root system. Applying manure (a bucket per 1m2) in the autumn and subsequent deep digging of the earth helps to provide such soil.
Manure will insulate the soil, enrich it with carbon dioxide, which is necessary for crop growth. Its presence in the soil will make the earth more airy, loose, which will provide air access to the roots and prevent moisture stagnation.
Additionally, you can make manure in early spring, covering it with a layer of soddy soil 20 cm high.
Cucumbers should not be planted in the same place every year; you can return to the previous planting site after 3-4 seasons. Land is not suitable for cucumber "Herman F1" if pumpkin and zucchini were previously cultivated on them.
A few weeks before planting seeds or seedlings, minerals are required - ash, superphosphate, ammonium or potassium nitrate. It is especially important to fertilize the soil with minerals, if it is planned to plant seeds immediately in the ground, top dressing will ensure friendly germination of greens.
Similar requirements for the quality of the soil (fertile and loose, enriched with minerals) are imposed when growing seedlings at home.
You can grow cucumbers "Herman F1" by planting seeds in the ground or greenhouse or by pre-growing seedlings at home. In any case, the seed material is extremely demanding on ambient and soil temperatures. The first should warm up to +22 ... 25C, the second should not be lower than + 18C. If the soil temperature is below + 16C, the seeds will not sprout.
It is worth noting that, if possible, gardeners try to refuse to grow seedlings of this variety, preferring to plant seeds immediately in a greenhouse or in soil under a film. This is due to poor survival of transplanted seedlings.
However, if the seedlings take root well, with this method it will be possible to harvest 2 weeks earlier. For growing seeds for seedlings, it is better to use peat pots with a diameter of at least 25 cm and sow one grain in each.
Under the film, seeds are usually sown at the end of May, but if seedlings are transplanted, then this can be done after the 20th of May.When growing a crop under a film in the ground, seeds are sown around May 23-25, and seedlings - after the tenth of June, when night frosts have passed.
You should focus not only on calendar values, but also on climate, air and soil temperature indicators.
Since the variety has rather powerful lashes, seedlings are planted at a distance of at least 30-40 cm from each other, and the distance between rows should be at least 60 cm. When sowing, the seeds are covered in grooves 2 cm deep at a distance of 5-6 cm, sprinkled with earth . After green shoots appear, they are thinned out, removing the weak ones. After that, the distance between seedlings should be at least 25 cm.
When transplanting seedlings into the ground, it is important to ensure that the roots are not excessively deepened, as this will not allow them to receive the necessary amount of oxygen. This, in turn, adversely affects the condition of the green above-ground part of the bush.
Properly plant the plant so that its roots are in the upper layers of the soil. However, this also causes compliance with certain conditions during cultivation - during watering, loosening, hilling, you should be careful not to damage the root system.
Care
After the third leaf appears on the bushes, it must be piled up, forming a small hill around the stem. This will protect it from moisture and further decay.
Cucumbers are a heat-loving crop and this variety is no exception. The optimum temperature for them is + 23 ... 25C, while the soil should be heated to at least + 18C. Too large differences in day and night temperatures should be avoided by covering the plants at night with a film when grown outdoors.
However, the plant does not tolerate direct sunlight - its leaves begin to curl. Abundant watering in the morning and evening will help prevent this, so that by the heat of the day the leaves are filled with water as much as possible.
Particular care should be taken to monitor the atmosphere inside the greenhouse or greenhouse, where the temperature can rise above + 35C, which is dangerous for the crop. Airing the greenhouse, abundant watering and spraying water into the structure allows you to quickly reduce the temperature.
This variety cannot grow in windy areas, does not tolerate drafts and heavy air masses. To protect the crop, you can plant tall plants nearby that will take on the wind. At the same time, you should make sure that they do not obscure the cucumbers too much from the sun. But a small penumbra on a hot day will not hurt the variety.
For irrigation, settled water should be used, it should not be cold, as this will cause the soil to cool. In addition, the root system does not absorb cold water, as a result of which it remains in the soil. The plant at this time does not receive moisture, as evidenced by the aerial part of the bush with withered and twisted leaves. The gardener, believing that the plant lacks moisture (which is absolutely true), adds water, which can provoke stagnation of fluid in the soil and the development of rot.
Watering cucumbers is recommended 2-3 times a week. If the summer turned out to be dry, watering can be done every day or every other day. It is better to do this in the evening or morning hours.
The drip irrigation system is considered the most advanced. If it is impossible to organize it, watering at the root or along the trunk of the bush should be avoided. It is more correct to pour water into special trenches near the cucumber bush.The rate of water consumption depends on the stage of vegetation and the size of the plant and can range from 0.5 to 3 liters.
The formation of the sheet, as already mentioned, is carried out in one trunk, which is tied to the trellis. The bush extended upwards receives more solar heat and does not come into contact with the ground, the risk of increasing the level of humidity inside the plantings is reduced, which means the likelihood of developing a number of diseases. As the bush grows, its stepchildren and the top are twisted on a vertically stretched rope so that the plant does not spread along the ground and does not break under its own weight.
When growing this variety, it is imperative to carry out top dressing, which is applied every 10-12 days. A universal solution for these purposes is an infusion based on 10 liters of water, 1 liter of mullein (the composition should have a thick consistency), 15 mg of ammonium nitrate.
During the flowering period, it is recommended to supplement a similar composition with calcium (chloride or sulfate), as well as superphosphate, taking these components in an amount of 20 g each. This solution is also suitable for feeding during fruiting, however, in this case, the concentration of the composition should be increased.
You need to grow cucumbers by alternating root and foliar top dressing. The latter are carried out with a solution of saltpeter (a tablespoon of the component in a bucket of water). When cultivating a variety in a greenhouse between top dressing, the time should be increased, since the earth there does not erode after rain, nutrients are stored in it longer.
As a rule, you can find out about the lack of a particular mineral by evaluating the appearance of the leaves. They begin to turn yellow and dry, and this may be the yellowness of the tips, the “rim” along the edge of the leaf or spot. In each case, we are talking about a deficiency of a certain mineral.
Diseases and pests
Variety "Herman F1" is resistant to many diseases, however, improper care can cause rust and spotting. As a rule, the main cause of such troubles is the difference between temperatures, provoked, among other things, by irrigation with cold water.
To determine that the plant is infected, appear brown, or rather, rusty spots on the foliage. They can also infect the neck of seedlings, so the affected bush should be isolated and sprinkled with earth and ash to form new roots.
To treat a diseased bush, use the "Arceride" solution, the ground around - with a solution of copper sulphate. Spray the rest of the bushes with Bordeaux liquid as a preventive measure. It can be used as a prophylactic that can be used throughout the growing season.
As a preventive measure, before flowering, foliar fertilizing with milk-iodine whey can be given to the bushes. To do this, 1 liter of milk, 30 drops of iodine are taken in a bucket of water. A piece of laundry soap is also rubbed there. All components must be thoroughly mixed and dissolved.
Plants can be affected by melon aphids or spider mites. The first one is usually noticed too late, when it will breed. The appearance of a tick on the bushes is evidenced by small cobwebs that suddenly begin to appear on the bushes. Insects settle on the inside of the leaf, drawing juices from the plant, which leads to its withering.
Aphids and spiders cannot stand the smell of marigolds and garlic, so these plants can be planted next to a cucumber ridge. As a folk remedy for pest control, an infusion of onion peel is widely used.
If the damage is significant, special substances of biological or chemical origin should be used.
Harvest and storage
The yellowing of the leaves of the bush indicates the maturity of the crop. Technical maturity occurs 40-42 days after germination.
Harvesting should be done every 2-3 days, this will save you from the appearance of tasteless and bitter “overgrowth” cucumbers in the garden. In addition, the more often the fruit is harvested, the faster a new batch of crop is formed on the bush.
Pickled cucumbers can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Before storing them, do not wash the fruits. In the process of washing, the protective shell will be removed, preventing the plucked vegetable from drying out.
To pick cucumbers from a bush should be, gently holding it by the stalk. If you pull the fruit, there is a chance of damaging the roots of the plant.
Do not step on parts of the bush during assembly. By the way, tying it to the trellis greatly simplifies crop care and harvesting.
After a plentiful harvest, by mid-August, the plant begins to show less and less vegetative activity. However, even from such bushes you can still get a good harvest. To do this, he is satisfied with iodine and milk foliar top dressing, while simultaneously stimulating the growth of new roots by hilling. During this period, all yellowed and dried leaves should be cut off so that they do not take away the vital juices of the bush and allow green leaves to develop.
Pinching the stepchildren allows you to form a second crop stream, but not all shoots need to be removed. The fact is that new fruits will be formed precisely on the stepchildren formed in the axils of the leaves.Two or three shoots should be left for this, the rest, like the mustache, should be removed so that the plant does not waste energy on building them up.
You will learn more about cucumbers of the German F1 variety from the following video.
I grew "Herman" for the first time this year, 2020. I am a fairly experienced gardener, vegetables always work out. But these cucumbers grew soft, not marketable and not pickled, which I encountered for the first time. Maybe someone knows what's wrong?
Galina, this hybrid is very demanding on the temperature regime - it does not tolerate both cold and heat. Such cucumbers are well grown in warm beds, covered with straw mats. They love top dressing very much, as they form a large crop. But this variety also has a minus, it does not tolerate low temperatures, frosts, is sensitive to watering, top dressing and does not like sunburn. My way: I sow seeds on April 7 in individual cups for seedlings. Shoots should stand at home (or in a warm, bright room) for at least three weeks. At the end of May, I transplant into a greenhouse. I choose a place so that when the cucumbers grow, their leaves do not adjoin the film, and the sun does not roast the leaves for days on end. Further - everything is as always: weeding, watering, top dressing.Did you do that?