Bulgarian pepper: cultivation in open ground and greenhouse

Bulgarian pepper: cultivation in open ground and greenhouse

Bulgarian pepper is not a simple vegetable. This culture requires compliance with certain rules of care. From planting the seeds to the ripening of the fruits, growing peppers will take some work. However, having understood the basic skills of cultivating this vegetable, every gardener will be able to get a good harvest. The article will focus on the cultivation of bell pepper in a greenhouse and in the open field.

Sowing dates

The first step on the way to a future harvest is planting seeds. In order for the further development of seedlings to be successful, it is important to observe the sowing dates suitable for each individual vegetable crop.

It is advisable to lay the seeds of bell pepper in the ground on the days when the moon arrives. In this case, germination will be almost one hundred percent. Landing must be carried out no later than February. Seedlings need to be strong enough at the time of transplanting into open ground or a greenhouse. And for this it is required that at least three months have passed from the moment of germination.

Planting seed for seedlings

Seeds of various varieties can be purchased at specialized stores. Seeds in bags undergo mandatory quality control and therefore their sowing is considered less risky.

Many gardeners collect seeds from fruits and plant them in winter for a new generation of plants. The disadvantages of this method is the possibility that the seed may not be preserved until the time of planting. In addition, with this method it is almost impossible to ensure the varietal purity of the culture.

For planting, you need to select the most healthy seeds. Pay attention to their appearance. Seeds showing signs of damage or decay should be discarded. Large seeds are the most viable and produce strong healthy shoots.

The technology for preparing the seed material selected for planting consists of three main stages.

  1. Disinfection of seeds in a weak solution of iodine or potassium permanganate. Processing time is not more than an hour. Seeds must be immersed in a prepared 1% iodine solution, or in potassium permanganate diluted in water to a faint pinkish color.
  2. Warming the seeds in warm water for 4-5 hours. The water temperature is preferably maintained at about 40°C.
  3. Germination is the last step in preparing the seed for planting. Seeds must be wrapped in a small piece of cloth and moistened with water. In this state, they should be left for 2-3 days at room temperature. To speed up germination, you can periodically bring a cloth with seeds to a battery or heater. It is important to ensure that the material in which the seeds are wrapped does not dry out.

Bulgarian pepper loves the soil in which sand is added. So it becomes looser. It is best to prepare the soil in the fall. According to the recommendation, soil and sand should be mixed in a ratio of 1: 1. For each kilogram of sand and soil mass obtained, 1 tablespoon of furnace ash should be added.

Agrotechnics of planting seed material of bell pepper.

  • Scatter the prepared soil into containers or boxes. Water it to moisten the entire layer. You can also use separate small containers: cups or pots.
  • The seeds need to be deepened by 1.5-2 cm. It is desirable to make the distance between each of them at least 4 cm. In this case, the seedlings will not have to dive additionally, thereby weakening and injuring the immature sprouts.
    • Sprinkle the planting holes with soil and again pour a small amount of warm water.
    • Cover the boxes with thick cellophane or transparent glass. Until the first shoots, containers with planted seeds should be left in a warm place, for example, not far from a battery or other heat source. The presence of light during this period is optional. Seeds react primarily to moisture and temperature.

    In warm regions with long summers, you can grow bell pepper seedlings in a polycarbonate greenhouse. When the threat of late spring frosts has passed, the prepared seed material is laid in the soil. For several days, beds with planted seeds can also be covered with glass or polyethylene.

    Care

    Getting good seedlings is a great joy for the gardener. However, the quality and quantity of the future harvest now depend on the care of young plants. The following tips will help you grow strong and healthy seedlings.

    • Immediately after the emergence of seedlings, the shelter should be removed from boxes and containers. They need to be moved to a sufficiently lit place.
    • Watering is carried out 1 time per day with warm, preferably melt or rain water. For good absorption of nutrients by the roots, it is advisable to carry out surface loosening of the soil before each watering.
    • With soil moisture, it is important not to overdo it. Excessive stagnation of water in the soil can provoke rotting of young roots or the development of a disease called "black leg". In both cases, the plant will not be able to develop further and will soon die. Therefore, the amount of water introduced into the soil must be determined based on the degree of its drying at the time of irrigation.
    • It is advisable to monitor the general humidity of the air in the room where the containers with seedlings are located. Periodically, you need to humidify the air with a spray gun or other devices. Reduces dryness in the room any flat container filled with water and placed under the radiators.
    • The optimum temperature for growing bell pepper seedlings is from +25 to +27 ° C. At night, it should not fall below + 15 ° C.
    • It is necessary to carry out timely fertilization of the soil. The first feeding is carried out at the time of the appearance of 4 leaves. This is usually about two weeks after sprouts appear. Urea is added to the soil. The solution is prepared in the ratio of 1 tablespoon of the substance per 10 liters of water.
    • The second fertilization should be done 5 days before transplanting to a permanent place in open ground or a greenhouse. To a solution of urea prepared in the ratio described above, add 1 tablespoon of superphosphate. Such top dressing will well strengthen young plants before a difficult period of adaptation in a new place.
    • Many experienced gardeners additionally irrigate with nettle infusion. This is done in the last 3-4 days before landing.

    Outdoor cultivation

    Seedlings that have grown and strengthened at home should be planted in the ground after the onset of stable warm weather.In the regions of the middle lane, the period favorable for transplantation is the end of May-beginning of June. In the southern regions, pepper seedlings can be planted on the site much earlier.

    After transplantation, young plants weaken, so they need to be properly looked after: carry out regular watering, feed.

    Before planting bell pepper seedlings, it must be hardened off. This should be done within 2 weeks of the upcoming procedure for transplanting young plants. Boxes and pots with seedlings are taken out to the balcony in warm weather or the window is slightly opened for 2-3 hours a day. If at night the temperature does not drop below + 15 ° C, containers with plants can not be brought into the room.

    This vegetable loves to receive sunlight. Therefore, it is necessary to choose an unshaded place on the site. But at the same time it must be protected from winds and drafts.

    In order for pepper to give a good harvest, the soil for planting it should be properly prepared.

    • Since autumn, the place where pepper seedlings are planned to be planted must be dug up well.
    • Before winter, it is desirable to fertilize the soil. For this, potassium and phosphorus-containing complexes are introduced.
    • After the snow melts from the site, ammonium nitrate is introduced into the soil in the amount of 40–50 g per 1 sq. m.
    • To reduce the risk of disease, a week before planting, the soil should be disinfected by watering it with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon of the drug per 10 liters of water).

    In the prepared soil, the strengthened hardened seedlings of bell pepper are transplanted. A planting pattern of 40x40 cm is recommended. So adult plants will not interfere with each other, and harvesting will not be difficult.

    • Before the planting procedure, the soil in boxes and containers must be well moistened.So the plants can be easily removed from the containers without injuring their roots.
    • Small indentations are made on the site, according to the landing pattern. Young peppers are installed vertically, the roots are sprinkled with earth. The soil in the root zone needs to be slightly compacted so that the stem does not bend or fall.
      • Transplanted plants should be plentifully watered with heated water.
      • In the first weeks, a bed with bell pepper is best kept covered with a film or other covering material. To do this, install the arcs at a distance of about a meter from each other. They will be stretched with fabric or polyethylene.
      • During flowering, pepper should be protected from the scorching rays of the sun. In extreme heat, pollen loses its quality, the number of fruit ovaries can be significantly reduced. For shading during the hours of greatest solar activity, you need to build screens or throw a thin covering material over the arcs above the beds.
      • Experienced gardeners claim that attracting pollinating insects significantly increases the number of ovaries and, naturally, the volume of the future crop. For these purposes, during the formation of flowers on plants, spraying with a sweet aqueous composition is carried out. In 10 liters of warm water, you need to dissolve 100 grams of sugar and 2 grams of boric acid powder.
      • During the season, it is necessary to carry out 3 top dressing of bell pepper. The first fertilization is done two weeks after planting seedlings. Add 1 tablespoon of carbamide and superphosphate to a bucket of water. The nutrient solution consumption is 1 liter for each root.

      The second top dressing should be carried out during the flowering period of peppers. At this time, potassium is very necessary for plants. You can purchase complex potash fertilizers or add wood ash to the soil.

      The third and last top dressing is carried out after the formation of fruit ovaries. In a bucket of water, add 2 teaspoons of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium salt. Mix the solution well until the components are completely dissolved. The consumption rate is 1-1.5 liters for each plant.

        Signs of nutritional deficiencies.

        • Yellowing leaves on peppers with regular watering most likely signal a lack of nitrogen. Plants should be sprayed with a weak solution of urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
        • If after abundant flowering you observe too few ovaries, you need to carry out an external treatment with a solution of boric acid. 1 teaspoon of the drug is added to a bucket of water.
        • If the fruits develop slowly and do not gain mass, add potash fertilizers or ash to the soil.

        How often do you need to water?

        The first time pepper is watered during landing in open ground. The second watering is carried out 5 days after the previous one. Further, in the absence of natural precipitation, it is necessary to moisten the soil once a week.

        Water consumption under one root of a young plant is about 1.5 liters. An adult pepper needs about 3 liters of water. During the flowering period, it is recommended to water the plants only with warm water (+22°C). When the fruits begin to ripen, it is no longer necessary to moisten the soil.

        It is important to loosen the topsoil after each watering or rainfall. The soil should not form a dense crust. Loose soil contributes to a better supply of minerals and oxygen to the roots.

        Should I stepchild?

        After the transplanted plants have taken root in a new place, got stronger and started to grow, you can begin to form a bush. When the height of the peppers reaches 25 cm, their tops need to be pinched.After that, many shoots will begin to grow from the stem, they should be partially cut off.

        Pasynkovanie should be carried out approximately once every 10-12 days. All lateral shoots below the central fork of the stem should be removed. And also the branches growing inside the bush are subject to cutting.

        The pinching procedure is recommended to be carried out on hot sunny days. The correct formation of the bush significantly saves the strength of the plant and increases the yield.

        What can you plant next to?

        It is known that the neighbors of any plant must be chosen wisely. Not only productivity, but also the existence of the plant itself often depends on them.

        • Both in the greenhouse and in the open ground, pepper is well adjacent to crops that have strong odors and emit phytoncides. The location nearby of plants such as onion, tansy, spinach, garlic, among other things, repel pathogens and pests from the vegetable.
        • Planting spicy herbs and plants near the beds with bell pepper has a good effect: dill, thyme, basil, parsley, marjoram.
        • Carrots, zucchini and eggplant have similar growing and care requirements, so they can be placed close to the pepper. It will even make it easier for the gardener to care for these crops.
        • Nettle and chamomile have a very positive effect on the process of fruit ripening.
        • The neighborhood of various types of cabbage also does not harm the Bulgarian vegetable.

        Pepper beds should not be located close to areas where the following crops and plants are grown:

        • fennel;
        • tomato;
        • beet;
        • legumes;
        • potato.

        Close proximity of various varieties of sweet pepper and its hot species should be avoided. This plant can cross-pollinate, so the fruits will not have the desired flavor profile.This is especially noticeable when mixed pollination of sweet and spicy types of vegetables. As a result, the fruits of the Bulgarian subspecies acquire a weak sharpness and bitterness.

        Diseases and pests

        Any plant, when attacked by parasitic insects or pathogens, loses strength and grows poorly. Pepper also has many enemies among pests. Vegetables are also susceptible to certain diseases.

        • Slugs, whiteflies, sofka and the Colorado potato beetle often attack both young and adult plants. To prevent and get rid of these pests, ash from the furnace should be sprayed on the stems and soil 3-4 times per season.
        • Medvedka damages the roots of plants, so they often die or stop developing for a long time. This "beast" does not like soil treated with onion infusion. To prepare it, you need to take 500 grams of onion peel and leave it in a bucket of water for 3 days. Before planting seedlings, as well as in the middle of the season, plants are watered with this infusion.
        • To combat aphids, whey is used. It is poured into a bucket of water in an amount of 1.5 liters. In dry weather, the aerial parts of the pepper are sprayed with the prepared composition.
        • Serious diseases are late blight, septoria, macrosporiosis. To treat them, you often have to turn to chemicals.
        • The black leg affects plants in case of an excess and stagnation of moisture in the soil. Therefore, it is important not to overdo it with watering. If the weather is rainy for a long time, it is recommended to make a temporary canopy over the beds from any waterproof material.

        For the secrets of growing peppers in the open field, see the following video.

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        The information is provided for reference purposes. Do not self-medicate. For health issues, always consult a specialist.

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