How can you feed bell peppers?

Bulgarian pepper is bred artificially. Breeders enriched the wild vegetable with vitamins and made it tasty. Today, a sweetish handsome man is a welcome guest on any table. Dishes with pepper are unusually attractive due to its bright colors. Due to the large number of nutrients contained in the "Bulgarian" vegetable, it is often called a well of health.

Bulgarian pepper belongs to the "capricious" cultures. He is very fond of warmth and fertile soil, does not grow well on clay and excessively moist soil.

In central Russia, a vegetable is grown through seedlings. Seeds for seedlings are sown in warm soil in February, early March. Young shoots require special care, which consists in maintaining the microclimate: light, temperature and humidity.

Seedlings grow strong if the seeds were treated with a nutrient solution, the picking of young shoots was carried out in a timely manner, additional lighting was installed, and a favorable watering and fertilizing regime was provided.

The soil is preferably loose and light. You can independently prepare the soil for seedlings by combining humus, sand and earth in a ratio of 2/1/1.

The root system develops well in soil-filled peat pots of small diameter. When planting in the soil, you do not need to remove the plant from the container, disturb the roots.

If any of the leaves of the seedlings turned yellow, know that the pepper "speaks" of excess water. Watering should be regular, and the pots should have holes to drain excess water into the tray. Lack of drainage will lead to rotting of the roots and death of the young plant.

Peppers are planted in unheated greenhouses in May, in open ground - in early June. Before planting, the plants are hardened: in the daytime they are taken out for several hours outside, of course, when the frost subsides, and the air warms up to +10 degrees and above.

A good yield of pepper is possible only on prepared soil. Peppers are planted on the ridges where onions or carrots, pumpkin or cabbage were grown. With autumn digging, potash and phosphorus fertilizers should be applied to the ground, and in spring it should be enriched with ammonium nitrate.

Do not rush to fertilize peppers immediately after transplanting to a permanent place. Firstly, top dressing should be carried out a couple of days before landing on the "permanent residence", and secondly, all the trace elements necessary for the plant should be in the soil itself.

Pepper loves to be looked after, and responds to an attentive attitude. Care consists primarily of top dressing. Untimely fertilizer affects growth and fruiting, slowing down both. When the stages of top dressing are followed, optimal conditions are provided for a bountiful harvest.

The first top dressing goes to seedlings when two true leaves appear on the sprouts. The next top dressing is carried out for seedlings developing at home, 14 days after the first.A couple of days before transplanting into a greenhouse or open ground, seedlings should receive another nutrient dose.

Peppers are transplanted into open ground in early June, while they are covered with covering material, providing good ventilation. In both cases, plants need to be fed two weeks after planting. During flowering, plants need a lot of "food", so the next top dressing will help in the formation of ovaries.

During cold snaps, especially long ones, plants experience stress. Often, the surface roots die off, and the peppers have little strength left to continue development. To restore the fruiting process after cold days, foliar fertilization will be required.

Carefully monitor the condition of the bushes. By the color and condition of the foliage, you can always determine the plant's need for a particular element. Twisted leaves indicate a lack of potassium, and unfriendly flowering with good foliage indicates the need to add superphosphate and exclude nitrogen from the next top dressing.

There are two equivalent types of plant nutrition:

• foliar;
• root.

In the case of peppers, both types are used.

Root top dressing is necessarily carried out with well-soluble substances. Powdered substances are scattered on the ground into the grooves around the plant, granular substances dissolve in water and enter the soil during irrigation.

Watering should be done carefully, protecting the leaves from falling on them with fertilizer intended for root dressing. Drops of liquid enriched with fertilizers can cause damage to the leaves in the form of burns.

Foliar top dressing is more laborious, but no less useful. Adult plants during active flowering and fruiting can be sprayed every one and a half to two weeks. The more fertile the soil, the less often foliar top dressing is required. It is preferable to alternate both methods of fertilizing peppers.

Most often, gardeners fertilize the land with organic fertilizers:

• peat;
• manure;
• bird droppings;
• humus.

Those who do not trust "shop" products use folk remedies: yeast, ash, eggshells, iodine, herbal cocktails.

If you feed the peppers with yeast, this, as a rule, has a positive effect on their growth and immunity. Yeast is dissolved in warm water with the addition of sugar, insisted, then diluted in more water and root dressing is carried out.

One drop of iodine dissolved in three liters of water can protect seedlings from diseases.

With a lack of potassium in the soil, wood ash is poured around the bushes.

Ready-made fertilizers contain everything you need for bell peppers. The recipe is selected for both seedlings and adult bushes. The complex fertilizer for seedlings "Kemira-Lux" has proven itself well.

A strong root system for peppers is provided by the Crystalon top dressing, which contains a sufficient amount of potassium and phosphorus.

Fertilizer can be applied by watering and spraying. In ready-made fertilizers purchased in stores, the dosage and method of feeding are indicated on the package. Fertilizers such as superphosphate and urea dissolve in water. Do the same with cow dung and bird droppings.

Spraying the bushes with a solution of boric acid contributes to:

• increased formation of ovaries;
• improving the taste of fruits;
• increase resistance to diseases.

When using chemicals, do not violate the established proportions.

And a few more tips from experienced gardeners and gardeners.

• Before planting peppers, you should not abundantly enrich the earth with organic matter.
• The soil for peppers needs to be prepared since the fall, to make phosphorus and potash fertilizers for digging.
• Nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil before sowing. Nitrogen contributes to the formation of ovaries, but its excess negatively affects the resistance of plants to diseases.
• Peppers will notify you of a lack of phosphorus in the soil with the purple color of the leaves.
• The gardener must recognize the signals of plants and supply them with the necessary trace elements in a timely manner.

See below for details.