How to harden tomato seedlings at home?
Some varieties of tomatoes perform best during harvest when grown from seedlings. However, in order to get healthy bushes with a lot of fruits, you need to know how to harden off tomato seedlings at home.
This process takes a lot of time, but a plant gradually adapted to natural conditions will certainly please you with weighty and tasty tomatoes.
The benefits of hardening
In tomato sprouts that have passed the hardening stage, there is much more strength and energy for fruiting. In their stems and leaves, the amount of sugar is many times greater than in plants grown without the hardening process. The structure of the tissues is also different. Hardened tomatoes have a thicker layer of the epidermis, due to which such representatives of the flora can easily withstand temperature fluctuations and gusts of wind. As a result, you can get a large and better yield from tomatoes that have undergone hardening.
If you plant seedlings from a greenhouse or grown, for example, at home on a balcony, in open ground, non-hardened plants may not withstand a change in habitat and die. If there is no death, the seedlings are very likely to get sick and survive, but you can not count on a rich harvest.
This feature is explained quite simply. When transplanting, any plant receives severe stress: new soil, different temperature, light, new living conditions with which the root system of the plant needs to “get along”.
In a closed space, seedlings grow in a stable environment, without feeling any negative aspects that await them in the open field: sharp temperature fluctuations, drafts, etc. And if you deprive the tomatoes of their usual habitat and plant them in a garden, you can provoke severe stress.
Hardening allows you to protect the vegetable crop from any factors unfavorable for its formation and growth. After all, the essence of this process is to slowly accustom the vegetation to be in open space.
Gardening experts also noticed that during the hardening period, the root system of tomatoes begins to grow rapidly, and by the time it is planted, the roots become strong, very powerful and large, and the plants themselves, although they slow down in growth, become fatter. This development occurs because, as a result of hardening, tomatoes “turn on” the protective function - they double the thickness of the stem and accumulate large doses of sucrose in the green mass.
When to start?
The time when you can start hardening, as a rule, is indicated by the plants themselves. Signs of this are:
- Leaf color. Dark green leaves, sometimes with a purple tinge, are the first sign that the tomato is ripe for a further stage of its development. If there are white spots or spots of a different color on the sheets, the seedlings cannot be hardened off.
- The appearance of the trunk. A sagging stem indicates that the vegetable is weak and cannot be further shocked. It should be a bright green color and only straight.
- root system. It should preferably have a fibrous structure. If it is healthy and strong, the plant will certainly take root and give good shoots.
- Leaf condition. The leaf plate should be well developed, without traces of diseases.
Rules for holding
Hardening of tomato sprouts at home is a combination of various activities related to the preparation of vegetable seedlings for growing conditions after they are transplanted into unprotected soil. Such adaptation will avoid a number of problems in the future during the growing season of vegetable crops.
Activities should begin no earlier than 2 weeks before transplanting to open areas. In the new conditions, seedlings should first be short-lived - 30 minutes a day, no more.
In the early days, you need to hide the plants from the direct rays of the sun (clean in the shade or make a canopy), gradually accustoming to sunlight. The residence time of plants in a new place must be increased daily by several minutes, bringing up to 2-3 hours. At the same time, it is also necessary to bring the seedlings into the light, but do not do this abruptly.
Before planting, the time the plants stay on the street should be already 24 hours, that is, a full day. Seedlings are considered ready for relocation to unprotected ground after a three-day stay on the street.
If the preparation is done in accordance with all the rules, tomatoes will be able to survive even the most unpredictable whims of the weather, for example, a temperature drop to -5 degrees. According to experienced vegetable growers, hardened tomatoes are not only more resistant to negative environmental factors, but their taste is much higher than that of plants grown without hardening.
If seedlings are grown in a greenhouse or in a greenhouse, hardening can be called airing the room by opening the door.If tomatoes are grown on a closed balcony or loggia, in which environmental conditions still differ from external ones, the plants should also be accustomed to the atmosphere of unprotected soil before planting, hardening the tomatoes for several days in the area where they will be until harvest.
Hardening in closed ground (greenhouses, greenhouses, lodges) should take place under conditions identical to those in open ground. During the day, the greenhouse is opened for ventilation, and this is quite enough for the root system to harden. You also need to drastically reduce watering, the amount of fertilizer applied. A week before planting tomatoes, watering should be completely stopped, while making sure that the soil does not turn into crackers. This method of cultivation will increase the resistance of vegetable crops to low temperatures and drought periods.
Alternative Methods
Experienced vegetable growers offer different ways to harden tomato seedlings. Among them:
- Temperature hardening. Seedlings are placed in a cold room with a temperature close to 0 degrees for exactly 1 hour. After 5 days, the procedure is repeated again, increasing the time spent in the cold up to 3-4 hours. 4 days before planting tomatoes, the actions are repeated for the last time with a decrease in temperature to - 2, keeping the seedlings under such conditions for 3-4 hours.
- Sun hardening. After hardening the seedlings with a short dry period, you can accustom it to the sun's rays. For tomatoes that previously grew in the shade, this will be a real stress, so in this situation it is important to act as carefully as possible. Experts advise starting such a procedure in the evening or morning hours.In the very sun, that is, at noon, tomato seedlings cannot be taken out in the sun, such a rash act will destroy all plants. At first, you need to keep the bushes on the street for 15-20 minutes, with a gradual lengthening of the period of being in a new environment.
Thanks to such measures, plants adapt faster after landing in a permanent place. Do not be upset if the bushes lose some of their green mass, this is a completely natural process, and the losses will most likely be insignificant. If the tomato was not hardened by the sun before planting, it will immediately get burned, become lethargic and unviable.
Recommendations
The entire period of hardening provides for temperature changes. The following indicators are considered optimal:
- during the day from + 16 to + 20 degrees;
- at night from + 8 to + 15 degrees.
It is strictly forbidden to take out unadapted sprouts of tomato seedlings under the direct rays of the sun, which can burn the delicate leaves of plants.
When the tomatoes are in the hardening stage, drafts should not be allowed. Hardening should take place gradually, without sharp drops / rises in temperature and jumps in natural light flux. In the case when the soil is very dry, before taking out the plants, moisten the soil with warm water, otherwise the seedlings will wither, especially if it is hot outside. If a period has come when the temperature drops sharply at night, down to minus levels, all plantings should be hidden in a warm room.
Everyone decides for himself whether to harden seedlings or not, but plants that have been hardened and vegetable crops that have not undergone these manipulations differ significantly from each other. In hardened tomatoes, the color of the stem and leaves is saturated green, and non-hardened seedlings have a faded, cloudy emerald color.Also, representatives of the first category have fluffy villi on leaves and trunks, which serve as additional protection for the plant from external factors of bad weather.
The stems of hardened seedlings are powerful, do not bend under the weight of fruits and the influence of gusty winds.
You will learn other secrets of hardening tomato seedlings from the following video.