Indeterminate varieties of tomatoes: what is it and how to grow them?
Experienced gardeners have no difficulty deciphering incomprehensible words on a bag of seeds, which cannot be said about beginner gardeners. As a rule, bright packages depicting ripe vegetables, indications of ripening dates, and the main characteristics of plants are striking. However, few people pay attention to the incomprehensible agronomic terms "determinant" and "indeterminate". But the quality of the crop depends on the knowledge of special definitions.
These terms are necessary when choosing seeds and indicate the type of plant growth - tall or short. Determinant varieties, increasing a certain number of brushes, stop growing, after which they begin to bear fruit. Indeterminate ones are unlimited in growth, and in the southern regions the height of the bush can reach 4 m.
It is necessary to take into account such nuances in order to plant the bushes at the optimal distance from each other, not to thicken the plantings, and to properly pinch, forming a bush.
Characteristic
An indeterminate tomato variety is limited in growth only by the duration of the warm season. Some tomatoes of this species may resemble a liana, which is not even a hindrance to the ceiling of the greenhouse.With this characteristic feature, tall varieties are best placed in the middle of the greenhouse area to give maximum space for growth.
The variety needs a mandatory garter, otherwise the stem will be laid on the ground under the weight of the fruit. Some gardeners advise placing indeterminate tomato bushes on a trellis, following the method of growing climbing cucumbers. In this case, you can expect the appearance of fruits along the entire length of the stem.
Since indeterminate tomatoes are very thermophilic, they are not grown outdoors. This is especially true of central Russia and the northern regions. But for a greenhouse, they are ideal - due to their height, they receive enough sunlight and do not block the passages. When caring for this variety, it is important not to allow expansion in breadth, not to increase the green mass.
Tall varieties are capricious and need careful care, they are prone to common diseases. For example, in the central and northern regions, they often become victims of phytophthora, which infects plants with insufficient sunlight and high humidity.
In a hot, dry summer, up to 20 kg of fruit can be obtained from a bush of tomatoes of this variety, if all the rules of cultivation are carefully observed and the growth of plants is systematically observed.
How are they different from determinants?
Which tomatoes are preferable are chosen based on the climatic characteristics of the region, the height of the greenhouse or greenhouse. The difference lies in the fact that determinant varieties of tomatoes are less whimsical, take root well and bear fruit even on open ground, are less susceptible to tomato diseases, and more easily tolerate forced drought or, conversely, high humidity.
In cool climates, it is better to choose determinant varieties. A short summer is enough for them to give a full harvest, and they can grow in low greenhouses under lutrasil.
Despite such clear growing advantages, determinant varieties are not very popular - gardeners give quantitative preference to planting indeterminate tomatoes. The explanation lies in the increased fruiting of the latter, and hence in a more abundant harvest.
With proper care, tall varieties of tomatoes, even in the northern regions, can grow up to 3 meters and yield 12-16 kg per m2. But medium-sized varieties under the most ideal conditions will not give more than 7-9 kg. Low-growing (dwarf, or standard) tomatoes are able to please the owners with medium-sized fruits with a total weight of 1-3 kg for the entire season.
If for some reason the variety is not indicated on the package with seeds or you buy seedlings on the market, then it is quite simple to distinguish indeterminate tomatoes from other varieties by the plant itself.
seedlings
As soon as the sprout hatches from the seed and appears on the surface of the soil, it forms a cotyledon knee, that is, the first two leaves on the stem. In low-growing tomatoes, the height of the subseed knee will be 1-3 cm, while in tall ones it will be much higher - 3-5 cm. stretch out.
Seedling
In cases of buying unknown seedlings or in case of doubts about the variety, you can easily determine the type of growth by an already formed small bush. Take a look at the plant: indeterminate variety forms the first flower cluster after 8-9 true (not cotyledon) leaves, in contrast to the determinants, in which flower brushes appear below 7 of this leaf.
adult bushes
At the stage of plants already planted and preparing to bear fruit, of course, it is too late to determine the variety in order to transplant to a more advantageous place. But this will allow you to be more careful when buying seeds and better plan a place for the next garden season. Tall tomatoes lay flower brushes in at least three leaves, and in undersized tomatoes, the laying of brushes always occurs through one or two true leaves.
Another difference in adult plants is the final ovary, which can be observed at the top of the determinate bush. It shows that the plant is fully formed and will not grow further. However, if a tall shrub was pinched (pinched) just behind the flower brush at the top, then it mistakenly seems that the plant itself has stopped growing.
Therefore, for an accurate determination, experienced summer residents are advised to count the number of leaves between flower brushes.
Advantages and disadvantages
You can determine which variety is suitable for growing on your site by familiarizing yourself with the main pros and cons of tall and short tomatoes. The undoubted advantages of indeterminate varieties include:
- A yield that is significantly higher than that which can be obtained from undersized counterparts. The ovaries are formed along the entire length of the plant and in total can give 16-20 kg of fruit from a bush over the summer.
- Fruiting, stretched for the entire garden season. The fruits may ripen until October. In the southern regions, fruiting does not stop throughout the velvet season.
- The compactness of the beds.High growth and the need to remove the lower branches make it possible to more rationally use the soil space, do not thicken the beds with green mass.
Tall tomatoes also have their drawbacks:
- Unlike undersized ones, they begin to ripen a month and a half later than their counterparts.
- More susceptible to common tomato diseases. Vulnerable to late blight, fungus and viral diseases.
- They require careful care, they are afraid of drafts and low temperatures. Therefore, in the northern regions on open ground there is always a risk of losing part of the crop. Grown mainly in greenhouses.
The subtleties of growing
In order to get a rich harvest and minimize the risk of tomato diseases, it is necessary to follow the basic rules of agricultural technology. First of all, tall varieties will need enough space in height. You will have to immediately abandon low greenhouses and prepare a full-fledged high greenhouse.
Already before planting seedlings in the greenhouse, trellises or an agronet are installed, and upper methods of tying plants are thought out. Indents grow quickly, and if you install garter elements later, you can damage the plants.
Bushes are planted at a distance of 70 cm from each other, taking into account the future size of the plant. The gap between the beds should be at least a meter, which will simplify the care of tomatoes and delimit the space of the greenhouse.
Formation
Tall varieties must be formed, leaving one or two main stems that will serve as the central trunks. Be sure to remove stepchildren at the stage of their germination, it is very important to prevent thickening of the bush.
The lower leaves are trimmed when the plant is old enough.Excess greenery is removed so that the bush gives all its strength to the formation of flower brushes and fruits. It is also important that overgrown branches do not interfere with ventilation and access to sunlight.
Toward the end of summer, when the bush reaches the dome of the greenhouse, pinch the top to stop growth and direct the plant's energy to fruit ripening.
Watering
Watering is carried out at a clearly defined time. The frequency of watering depends on the weather and soil composition. It is important not to let the earth become completely dry, but it is absolutely impossible to pour tomatoes. The best option is considered to be abundant watering of tomatoes every 5-7 days. Plants should be watered under the root so that water does not fall on the leaves, otherwise there is a high risk of tomato disease, and on hot days, sunburn. Water the bushes with warm water early in the morning or in the evening when the sun is less active.
top dressing
Basic fertilizers are applied at least three times per season:
- 10-15 days after planting bushes in the ground;
- during the flowering period;
- after the ripening of the first fruits.
There are countless ways to feed, and each gardener experimentally selects his own, suitable for him in terms of crop quality and the presence of feeding elements (manure, chicken manure, organic infusions). In addition, there are a lot of complex mineral fertilizers on sale, ready to use, you just need to follow the instructions.
Diseases and pests
Even with the most careful care and ideal conditions, there is a risk of losing the crop due to diseases or pests that tomato plants are susceptible to. The main problem is that in the early stages it is impossible to determine the symptoms of the disease, or the pest larvae hide deep in the soil.To prevent such misfortunes, experienced gardeners use prophylactic drugs, already knowing what kind of ailments tomatoes are prone to in their area. Among the most common diseases are the following.
late blight
A fungal disease that destroys leaves and stems, and then fruits. It is characterized by the appearance of brown spots, spreads at high humidity and low temperatures. To prevent it, tomatoes should be sprayed with the Fitosporin-M preventive drug, ventilate the greenhouse, preventing condensation on the walls.
Water the tomatoes strictly under the root or through an inverted plastic bottle buried in the ground.
Mosaic
Viral disease, manifested by yellow spots on the leaves, twisting and wilting of plants. A diseased plant must be removed from the root in order to prevent the spread of the disease to neighboring bushes and preserve the crop. As a preventive measure, tomatoes are sprayed with a solution of iodine at the rate of 10 ml per 10 liters of water.
Rot
The disease has different forms: brown rot (around the stalk), gray (mold on fruits and leaves in rounded ulcers), root (damages the neck of the root) and apex (black spots appear on unripe fruits). Tomatoes are susceptible to any form of disease in rainy and cold summers.
For the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to spray the plants with Fitosporin-M, if possible, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, reduce the frequency and volume of watering.
No less damage to the crop is caused by insect pests that devour plants and lay eggs in the soil. These include the following.
spider mite
The insect has a microscopic size and a light color, so it is difficult to notice.It sucks the juice of the plant and braids the leaves with a thin cobweb. Prefers dry air and absence of drafts. Regularly check the undersides of tomato foliage for blackheads, ventilate the greenhouse, and keep the soil from drying out. If black dots are found, it is necessary to spray the bushes with Fitoverm.
whitefly
Centimeter insect with white wings. It harms plants by laying larvae under the leaves. It feeds on juices, in the process of vital activity of the larvae, a black fungal coating appears on the leaves.
When an insect appears, the bushes are sprayed with "Phosbecid" or "Citcor".
wireworm
Yellow caterpillars feed on the roots and stems of tomatoes, they are able to destroy the plant before the fruit ripens. Prevention is carried out in the spring, a week before planting, by burying pieces of vegetables on long skewers into the soil. After a few days, the skewers are pulled out and checked for potholes and passages in the vegetables. If any, the soil must be treated with the drug "Bazudin" or its analogues.
Tips from experienced gardeners
Each gardener has his own little secrets for growing certain crops. Skill comes with experience, which they are happy to share with novice gardeners. The suggested tips can be used individually depending on the composition of the soil, the growing climate, your own knowledge and preferences, but they definitely will not interfere with gaining experience:
- In one greenhouse, it is best to grow several varieties of tomatoes at once - tall and short, early ripe and those that will bear fruit until the first frost. This will allow you to insure yourself in case of an unsuccessful variety, try different tastes, and orient yourself by varieties for the next year.Early ripe ones will provide a summer table with vitamin salads, and late varieties will ripen for autumn preparations for the winter.
- Pasynkovanie is a prerequisite for growing tall varieties, but there are certain tricks. Carefully observe the plants and do not let the stepchildren grow more than 3 cm. The neglected stepson compacts its trunk and, when it is cut off, the plant forms a large wound, which takes longer to heal and can become a site of infection.
- To grow large giant fruits, the following trick is used: periodically you need to remove some of the flowers from the plant, and remove a few unripe fruits from the brushes so that the rest absorb strength into themselves. The fewer fruits and flowers left on the bush, the larger the remaining fruits will be. The main thing is not to overdo it.
- Watering and fertilizing after planting seedlings in the first two weeks should be tried to be minimized, otherwise the plant can be “overfeeded”. There is a risk of delayed fruiting and even diseases of tomatoes. You can determine the excess of top dressing by large flowers that appear on the first leaves. Flowers, although they promise good fruits, but this is a deceptive impression. They will take too much strength from the plant, so the flowers are removed, and the cycle of feeding is reduced or suspended.
- When tying tomatoes, turn the stem around the twine in the direction of the sun from east to west. This will allow the plant to naturally reach for the light source. For tall tomatoes, a garter in the center is not enough, as heavy brushes with fruits will begin to injure the plant. Therefore, threads coming from branches are added to the central axis - twine.As a result, each bush becomes like a cone or a Christmas tree, the fruits are open to sunlight, and the branches do not bend or break.
The difference between indeterminate and determinant varieties is described in the following video.