Why does the plum not bear fruit and what should be done to change the situation?
If a previously fruitful plum suddenly ceases to bear fruit, then any gardener will be upset. It is necessary to quickly determine the cause of the trouble and, if possible, eliminate it. There are several basic situations that result in the interruption of the fruiting of this fruit.
What year should you give birth?
In general, if you take care of the plum according to the rules, then it begins to produce a crop somewhere 5 years after planting. This period depends on the innate characteristics of the variety itself, its pollinators and living conditions. There is a rule that the first fruits can be expected when the shoots have accumulated a specific number of internodes on the kidneys. The process of their appearance can be accelerated by forming a bush.
In addition, in order to understand how to care for a tree so that it quickly bears fruit, you need to know which group it belongs to. Plums are distinguished that bear fruit on a one-year growth (it is important to maintain the growth of shoots), on perennial overgrown branches (you will have to constantly thin out the crown) and intermediate (you will have to do both).
Even at the stage of buying seedlings, you should find out whether they will be self-fertile or self-fertile. In the first case, the plant can reproduce only with the help of bees carrying pollen from related plants. Plants must be of a different variety, but ripen at the same time as the one that requires pollination.In the second, their own pollen is used, and pollination occurs independently. In the case of plums, it is recommended to give preference to self-fertile varieties.
In addition, it is important to understand whether the selected seedlings will be combined with each other, as well as with the available soil and the existing climate in the area where this fruit is to be grown. The plum will be planted on well-lit beds in such a way that different varieties (if available) feel comfortable with each other. If you keep the plum in proper conditions, then the harvest can be expected every year.
Finally, it should be borne in mind that this plant can bear fruit for 20 years, after which it will die rather quickly. But some varieties still have lean years, and this is absolutely normal.
Reasons for the absence of fruits
There are eight main reasons why a plum does not bear fruit.
Firstly, such a nuisance as a physiological carrion may be to blame. Her symptoms are as follows: the tree blooms, ovaries appear, fruits are formed, but they do not have time to reach a ripe state. The cream just falls to the ground. Such a defective condition can occur for several reasons: either the plum does not receive enough nutrients, or the roots cannot cope due to weakness, or there is an excessive / insufficient amount of moisture, or improper care.
Secondly, a mistake could initially be made when choosing a plum variety, and a self-fertile one was bought (and this is most varieties of plums). Such varieties need pollinators, and if they are not planted, then the fruits will not have to wait.
In addition, if the plant is planted in a rainy region, then the pollinating insects may not be up to the task.In this case, it is better to select self-fertile varieties.
Thirdly, a fairly common cause is tree disease. Diseases such as fruit rot and clasterosporium deprive the plum of the opportunity to form a large number of fruits. The fungus clasterosporiasis destroys the leaves, forming holes in them. Then the infection passes to the branches, the trunk and the cream itself. Dry and damaged shoots must be cut off, and the plant must be treated three times with special solutions.
In addition, plum can be affected by moniliosis. The plant is covered in black soot and looks like it has been burned. As a preventive measure, before the start of the appearance of flowers, as well as immediately after it, the cream will need to be processed.
Gray rot affects the fruits themselves. It should be remembered that the disease calmly endures the cold season and does not disappear due to the cold. To prevent trouble, the crown and soil will need to be sprayed with a special compound, and the affected fruits with shoots should be removed and burned.
Fourth, common pests can be to blame. For example, the codling moth caterpillar eats cream and even seeds: as a result, the fruits fall to the ground and begin to rot. And such a pest as a flower beetle feeds on the buds of flowers and does not allow the ovaries to form.
Fifth, bad weather is becoming a fairly common problem. In May, frosts very often occur, and the buds freeze out, and the young shoots also weaken - and the yield drops again. But also a sudden drop in temperature and cold gusts of wind lead to the sterilization of pollen, without which the appearance of fruits is impossible. There are also problems when there are droughts or heavy rains.
During flowering, you should pay attention to the pistil - if it freezes in winter, then the color will change to black from green. As a result, the fruits will not be able to start.
Sixth, a lot of problems can be created by the wrong soil. If the soil has increased acidity, then you will have to bring it into a state of “neutrality” - make additives in the form of ash or slaked lime, chalk, crushed egg shells or limestone flour. The acidity of the soil, by the way, is easy to determine by appearance - if there are a lot of moss and "acid-loving" plants on the surface, but no clover, and you can see a white layer on the surface, then these indicators are clearly increased.
It is important to know that the plum is able to oxidize the soil in much larger quantities than other trees with shrubs. Therefore, annual alkalization of the earth is mandatory.
Seventhly, improper planting of a seedling, in which the root is damaged, can lead to adverse consequences. If the seedling is buried so deep into the soil that its root neck is not even visible, this will be a big mistake. This part of the plant must definitely look out.
Eighth, the plum may not have enough lighting. This situation may arise if the tree is planted near the fence, the wall of the building, or next to the higher "neighbors".
Finally, a lack of yield in a plum may be the result of some kind of mechanical damage, as well as incorrect pruning. A plum, as a rule, has a strong crown, so you need to deal with its formation. Otherwise, the density of branches will prevent the redirection of resources into flowers and fruits.
What do we have to do?
In general, a set of measures is always important: top dressing, watering, premature protection from pests and diseases.It is possible to fight physiological carrion only by taking preventive measures. Throughout the season, it is important to consistently fertilize the plant: in the spring, urea and potassium sulfate are used, and in the summer, when the tree has already bloomed, nitrophoska. All of the above ingredients are diluted in water. At the moment when the fruits have already begun to form, you can feed the soil with chicken manure diluted in water. In autumn, it is recommended to take up the roots, again using potassium sulfate, as well as phosphorus fertilizers.
It is also important to regularly spray with a suitable solution, such as a fungicide, to prevent disease. During the appearance of buds, a month before harvesting the fruits and after leaf fall, spraying is carried out using a Bordeaux solution of different percentages.
In addition, do not forget about the importance of collecting and destroying fallen leaves and mummified fruits.
Various activities can force pests to leave the beds. These include active loosening of the soil at the trunk, setting traps and processing with chemicals, for example, Calypso, Aktara and Mospilan. If the existing land does not fit the drain, then a hole is dug with sides equal to one meter, which is filled with a fertile nutrient mixture. Sometimes only partial improvement is carried out with peat or sand.
Professional gardeners have by now formed several important rules that should be followed. You can transplant or plant new ones only in the spring. Before planting, the holes will have to be fertilized, ideally with organic matter. For example, it can be manure or compost, ash. From ready-made preparations, it is worth choosing those that contain potassium salt or superphosphate.
In the first years of a tree's life, it is recommended to feed it with urea, manure and ash. During a drought, the plum should be abundantly irrigated with liquid, and in order to prevent the negative effects of sunlight and frost, tie boles and whitewash. Appearing cracks will have to be cleaned and treated with a solution of iron sulfate.
Expert advice
Experts believe that a plum grown from shoots will bear fruit quite successfully. In addition, this method of reproduction of this fruit is very simple and convenient. In any case, the growth will have to be eliminated so as not to limit the yield of the tree, so it is better to use it to good use. Deciding to use this method, you need to choose the best process, which is located away from the trunk. It will be convenient to get it, plus it will already have developed roots. The shoot can be dug either in spring or in late summer and early autumn. The size should be medium, not exceeding 50 centimeters, but not less than this size. Small shoots adapt much better to new conditions.
Dig up the offspring and separate it from the main tree very carefully. The shoot is taken out along with a lump of soil and transferred to a separate container. Immediately you need to moisten the soil and prevent it from drying out. If immediate planting is possible, then you can simply place the plant in a plastic bag.
The root of the main tree is best processed, for example, sprinkled with wood ash.
The resulting shoots should first be planted on a separate bed with nutritious soil and minimal lighting. For about a month, you need to irrigate the plantings abundantly and maintain the optimum temperature.After about a month, the plum should get used to the new place of "residence" - leaves will appear and growth will continue. At the same time, active top dressing starts. Next spring, a stronger plant can be transplanted to a permanent place with good lighting. It is carefully dug up and transferred along with a clod of earth. The land must be fertile and fertilized.
See below for details.